Items Discussion & Review

4WD/Railcar: (Lehmans New God of War!!) TOYOTA GAZOO RACING TS050-Hybrid #18652 Unpacking + Assembly

3074 new goods start
This TOYOTA GAZOO RACING TS050-Hybrid has almost no opponents in the 2018 FIA WEC (World Endurance Championship) LM P1 level. It can be said that it will win the most team and driver points at the end of the journey. The driver lineup is also very gorgeous. Six Four of the drivers are former F1 or active drivers, including Kobayashi Kobayashi, Nakashima Igui, Sebastien Buemi, Fernando Alonso. When the strong traditional teams AUDI, Porsche, Peugeot, etc. did not participate in WEC, I think TOYOTA opponent is only their own~ This time, Tamiya rarely sold the real Lehman model directly as a four-wheel drive. This is for Mark. It is really an attractive product! Lets check it out!



TOYOTA GAZOO RACING TS050-Hybrid #18652 The LE MANS 24-hour winning No. 8 car has not been cleaned in the work room, and the wear under high-speed driving is clearly visible~~

2.4-liter V6 twin-turbo engine (500ps) + one electric motor on each front and rear axle (500ps) = 1000ps horsepower!!



Returning to the world of four-wheel drive, Tamiya had previously announced the sale of this car, making Mark feel that he was not a fan if he did not buy a few teams~~~

Product Code: Tamiya 18652 It seems that it is not a limited item starting with 9, the quantity should be enough~



The chassis and accessories are all black! Those who like black should feel good~~~

Iron gray middle diameter wheel frame with black flat tires, gear ratio is matched with 3.5:1

The car shell part was originally thought to be a hard shell. After the result was published, it was a PS soft shell. There is a small part at the end to be processed. It is recommended to use a special curved shear for the car shell with small scissors.

The most important stickers are really a bunch of stickers. I personally think that it is better to use water stickers.~~ But this is impossible for four-wheel drive products~~



Assembly articles:
TOYOTA GAZOO RACING TS050-Hybrid #18652 Because it is used as a display car, the chassis does not need to be changed, just follow the steps in the manual.

MA is a chassis designed by the new generation. The strength near the axle hole is also designed to be very stable. It is rarely heard that the axle hole is burst.

I think Tamiya chose a transparent soft shell this time after thinking about it, because the difficulty of the sticker must be adjusted to a very high standard, which is definitely a hard work for beginners~~



The soft shell after cutting can be seen covering the entire chassis

Since the actual car is equipped with a porous aluminum ring, Mark turned out the silver-gray aluminum frame that he bought many years ago, and it seems to match very well~~

Oh~~ It seems to have a feel!

Tear the protective film on the white transparent shell sprayed to start the “sticker battle”!

After fighting with the sticker, it is finally finished. It is not very recommended that novices challenge this one from the beginning, because there are too many steps to think about and then paste it~ the sticker is not a general version, it is sticky except thin, and it can hardly be mistaken. As long as it is pasted, there is no help, and this one also has painting lines on the car body, and there are many angles. There are many places where the fingers cannot be pressed and fixed. I need some tools to look good. I used a pen knife and cut it straight. , Curved shears, cotton swabs, tweezers…just look at the instruction stickers and it will be done~ I also open the official completion map of Tamiya one by one…



The whole momentum came out after being combined with the chassis!!!

All stickers must be symmetrical on both sides, and the eyes must be careful to see the relative position, and the whole scalp is numb~~~~

TOYOTA GAZOO RACING TS050-Hybrid #18652 Stickers can choose to use No. 7 or No. 8, I choose No. 8 car “Fernando Alonso, Sebastien Buemi, Kazuki Nakajima”

This Liman car is really handsome. In the past, it was necessary to purchase a water sticker to modify the hard shell. The operation of Tamiya is very fast. I think the metal model and the scale model will also be available soon. This one is out of the box. After assembling, it is used as a display car. I will use it to modify other stations to go to the speeding station~~~ Interested friends do not hurry up and take a few units to form a team!!

Tamiya Model Mini 4WD Racing Car 1/32 TOYOTA GAZOO RACING TS050 HYBRID MA 18652

In addition to the FM-A new chassis that has attracted attention, the new car of 2018 has begun to sell classic cars with front motors. The animal-type limited cars have gradually become a series of zoos… and let me There are not many cars that start right away. This is the car that I saw right away. The retro design and the VS chassis that I have not seen for a long time made me very interested, and I will also team up to show the car~ I know more about motorsports Friends, are you familiar with this design? Is not this the old F1 of Bugatti? Mark just opened the box and bought it directly, not in May 4th~~ Check it out!



Tamiya did not do anything in this VS chassis with a new wheel frame to match this old F1. TAMIYA MACH-BULLET VS Chassis 18091 old-designed five-claw frame with round tires, and the colors did not match, so it looks really unmatched…

I am looking forward to the design of the electroplating design~~ (In fact, Tamiya wants to clear the stock chassis wheel frame…)



I searched for this car. It is very likely that the model was based on the Bugatti F1 from 1933 to 1948. I found a few pictures that are really similar~~

The weight of the car less than 800kg plus the driving force of 300 horsepower, although it is an old car in the 1940s, it is not a good thing~~



There is also a well-preserved Bugatti old F1 that still has a chance to run a few laps at the Goodwood Racing Festival every year~~



Unpacking!
Tamiya in the heart of the Buddha rarely paints the human figure directly and attaches it. You do not need to use a facial brush to draw for half a day~

Moreover, I think that this person type can be modified to be a fighter pilot of World War II~~



Tamiya recommends using TS-23 Light Blue as the car color, I still want to change it to other colors~ All silver is Mercedes silver arrows

The VS chassis has nothing new, nor does it use a strengthened chassis, strengthen the wheel frame



TAMIYA MACH-BULLET VS Chassis 18091 equipped with a high-torque 5:1 gear set, is it climbing????



The design of the sticker is quite complete. The dashboard, air intake, and car number are all ~



Postscript
Basically, this is a car that Tamiya wants players to play with creativity. It is close to the design of the real car and the shape of the person. Change the color. Dig a few holes to change the wheel frame. You do not need to paint your own face! Mark, who is not so skilled, has a hard time even if he has made several human models…

Tamiya Model Mini 4WD Racing Car 1/32 Scale 4WD Mach-Bullet VS Chassis 18091

4WD/Railcar: (Hanging rail saver~!) HG 19mm disc guide wheels new product unpacking Tamiya Mini 4WD Aluminum Ball-Race Rollers 95436

Tamiya recently released an aluminum guide wheel like a flying saucer. Mark looked at the 11mm semi-circular guide wheel of the cannonball car (Dangun Racers) he bought before, but 19mm looks more atmospheric. Interested friends come together Check out this Tamiya Mini 4WD Aluminum Ball-Race Rollers 95436 new product!



As a HG product, the quality of the production is a guarantee, and the appearance seems to have doubts about weight. After all, lightweighting in actual combat is very important.

Tamiya Mini 4WD Aluminum Ball-Race Rollers 95436 If I were, I should drill 8 holes in it…

The manual tells you that this is a kind of anti-hanging rail design, although we often use other methods, such as homemade reinforcements, etc… to avoid hanging rails

Tamiya Ball-Race Rollers 95436 looks good when opened, but it looks like a bowl of dog feed on the table

The back is structurally sound and very sturdy.

If you have players who have been playing for more than five years, you should have seen the 11mm semi-circular guide wheel (#15342) of this artillery car below. Of course, Mark also bought it. This guide wheel looked unremarkable at the time, a bit like a semi-circular gold ball reamed with a 520 bearing, and because the diameter of 11mm is not easy to set the width of the car, the diameter of 9mm is more popular. In addition, this guide wheel mark has a disadvantage after use. The 520 bearing inside is very easy to break because it is usually installed on the lower guide wheel and cannot withstand the force of continuous impact on the track. Without matching anti-hanging rails, the bearing is almost broken down~~ However, this product has disappeared from the market, and you can not buy it…

Putting it together and comparing it, we can see that the similarity has 87 points.

Before using, please note that because Tamiya 520 hole is very tight, it is recommended to withdraw 520 first and then expand the hole to about 0.01~0.02cm before placing it into the 520 bearing.

Player self-modified disc guide wheels:
Borrowing the pictures of netizens, as long as the old players know in the past… Some people will cut the double-layer bell ring guide wheel in half and then divide it into two disc-shaped guide wheels, as shown in the rear guide wheel.

I can only say that there are now 13mm lightweight aluminum guide wheels, so this approach is rare.

Tamiya Mini 4WD Model Mini 4WD HG 19mm Tapered Aluminum Ball-Race Rollers 95436

It was only in April that the Tamiya Mini 4WD Mach-Bullet 95483 was unpacked. Mark still wanted to paint in what color, covered with masking tape, and dug out the large-diameter electroplated tire frame 5 years ago. Tamiya launched the electroplated version quickly. This is really Its disappointing….But I still started with a very weak brain wave. I plan to use this electroplated version as a display, and it is also beautiful in the display cabinet~ In the end, the limited electroplated version of Mach Bullet and blue What is the difference between the first color version? Those who want to buy this model can take a look~



People are not as good as days, and days are not as good as Tamiya business abacus~ Even a limited edition version has been released in a few months, the whole is speechless~~



The color matching accessories of the electroplated version are very close to what I imagined, and it can be regarded as a box car that can be directly assembled and appreciated.

The metal version of the limited car Tamiya has always been out. My last electroplated car is the AR avant-garde blue electroplated commemorative version, which has been displayed in the garage.



The car shell wheel frame is all electroplated and shiny!!!

The battery cover motor is gray for me, isnt it better to use black????



Tamiya Mini 4WD Mach-Bullet 95483 limited edition uses AR chassis, I dont love it, because Tamiya said how good this chassis is, but the actual situation is that there are better choices, I would rather use the VS of ancient times Come change the car~

Electroplated stickers are also shiny. Tens of thousands of nails need to be pressed with nails. Once they have nail marks, they cant go back…



Tamiya is very sincere (want to make money) and changed the color of the humanoid, just to let you pay for it again~~~~

The material of the AR chassis is good, but now it is emphasized that the chassis must have a buffer capacity, it is best to be a little soft but not loose???!!! AR needs soft Q, but it takes a little effort…



After a while, I will set it up. It takes a lot of time to attach stickers, and it is not difficult to set up an original AR.

Tamiya Mini 4WD Mach-Bullet 95483 has to say that the electroplated wheel frame is really extra points, and the AR chassis can only be shelved.

Start the engine and run Le mans 24hr? No! This one should go directly into the display box~~



postscript
Tamiya has never given up anime character models, whether it is with a new chassis or re-sold, but now children are watching Youtube on their mobile phones. There is no emotional connection to anime character models, so they are all aftergoing adults, not even Coincidentally, the four-wheel drive Tamiya setting is mainly for primary school students and even middle school students, so the difficulty of triggering the craze has increased. Now Tamiya has a lot of futuristic and real car models. The children are more speechless…Hope that Tamiya is in anime Continue to work hard to let the children have an unforgettable childhood!

Tamiya Model Mini 4WD Racing Car 1/32 Mach-Bullet Metallic SP AR Chassis 95483

When the official launch of the Yaris WRC, commonly known as “Duckling”, the actual car painting caused a lot of topics, of course, Mark is no exception, as soon as the sale immediately bought a group home, this time is only It is assembled according to the original factory and has not been painted again. In the future, it will also be placed as a display car~~!



It is far away from the last WRC car model released (RC Mini 4WD series, TR-1 chassis). After more than ten years, there are finally successor models. Then you can compare the old and new~

Tamiya Mini 4WD YARIS WRC 18654 with the latest generation of MA chassis, not only easy for beginners to use, but also has great potential for modification, it is a must-have training chassis for players!

This time Tamiya Mini 4WD YARIS WRC 18654 is not sold in a limited way, so there is no need to worry about not being able to buy it~~

I like the black chassis and the white car shell. I estimate that I will buy a few more to play in the future and get a private event~~

Tamiya YARIS WRC 18654 3.5:1 gear set with all black accessories~ Excellent!

The middle-diameter WRC wheel frame with black tires faithfully presents the racing style~~

In addition to admiring your own patience, the whole car shell is also admired that Tamiya can make such a complicated sticker. If the novice wants to paste it very beautifully, he must have a certain manual ability…

It feels good after fitting with the chassis, it seems that the water sticker will look better…

Seeing the protruding wheel arch and aerodynamic kit, I know that this is definitely not the YARIS we saw on the road…

The super-exaggerated double-layer rear wing dedicated to the track is also faithfully presented~~~

Tamiya Mini 4WD YARIS WRC 18654 In order to be more racing, Mark has attached Michelin’s tire water stickers, and it looks good to embellish it~~

Tamiya Mini 4WD YARIS WRC 18654 assembly is complete!!! After preparing to burn tires, go away~~~

As long as you go on the track, you are pushing to the limit, without reservation!

If you are interested in real car four-wheel drive, I highly recommend this Yaris WRC, which can be organized for display or used to run the track.

If you change to the basic modification kit and run on the track, I believe it is very eye-catching!!

Tamiya Model Mini 4WD Racing Car 1/32 Toyota GAZOO Racing WRT YARIS WRC 18654

In addition to appearance and mechanism design, multi-function and simple operation are also one of the product features of iSDT Charger SC-620 and SC-608. And because the operating instructions are not attached to the contents of the product packaging, so players who have little experience in using the charger will cause some confusion in use. In view of this, after the RCT editorial department has finished producing product-related introductions, we will now send the SC-620, SC-608 basic functions and Task Setting functions and operation instructions.

In order to reduce the number of photos displayed and reduce the reading pressure, the following photos of the RCT editing department are based on the iSDT Charger SC-620 screen as a representative. This is because the iSDT Charger SC-608 function screen is almost the same as the SC-620. Where there is a difference between the two, we will further strengthen the narrative. Above, please readers understand.

Automatic detection at boot
After the power input port is connected with enough power to drive, the machine will first perform the internal program automatic detection process. This automatic detection time takes about a few seconds.

note! During the automatic detection, do not connect any batteries to the power output port, otherwise an error warning message with code 503 and a warning sound will appear, and the screen will display a text message asking to remove the connected battery. If the error message of the above code 503 occurs, you do not need to unplug all the power to perform the operation again. Just unplug all the battery cables of the output port, and then press the wheel button to continue the automatic detection process.

After the automatic detection, the standby status screen is displayed. Turn the wheel button to display the above two groups of information pages back and forth. (Because the charged battery has not been connected to the power output port on this screen, NC is displayed behind the battery icon on the screen.)

After automatic detection, after the charged battery is connected to the power output port, the current voltage value of the connected battery will be displayed behind the battery icon on the screen.

Task Setting
Press the wheel button in the standby state to enter the Task Setting function menu, and the default function option position to enter the Task Setting is Start, and turn the wheel button to select other function items.

Select Start and press the wheel button to start Task. ;Depending on the task function item, choose which task item to charge, discharge and save.

Turn the wheel button in the Task Setting function group to select the Task function item, press the wheel button screen to jump out of the task menu, rotate the wheel button to select Charge (Discharge), Discharge (discharge), Storage (save) three kinds of work tasks, press the wheel button after selection Make a selection.

In the Battery function item, press the wheel button to pop up the battery type menu. Rotate the wheel button to select LiHv (high voltage lithium), LiPo (lithium polymer), LiIon (lithium), LiFe (lithium iron), Pb (lead acid), NiMH/Cd (nickel-metal hydride/nickel-cadmium) six battery types, after selection, press the wheel button to select.

In the Cell function item, press the wheel button screen to pop up the battery string number menu. Rotate the wheel button to select the number of battery strings from 1S to 6S (each 1S is the selection unit). After selection, press the wheel button to select.

In the Current function item, press the wheel button to pop up the current setting menu, and turn the wheel to select the current value. Here iSDT Charger SC-620 can choose 0.1A~20.0A, SC-608 can choose 0.1A~8.0A (all 0.1A as the unit of selection), after selection, press the wheel button to make the selection.

Confirm that the above settings are correct to start the task work, turn the wheel key to select Start, and then press the wheel key to start work. ;If the number of selected Cells does not match the number of actually charged batteries, the charger will automatically correct and start charging correctly. The user does not need to worry about danger.

To end the Task Setting operation, turn the wheel button to select Back, and then press the wheel button to return to the standby state.

Charging
The following is a 3S lithium polymer battery connected to the power output port, and the charging task is used as an example. After the charging process starts to execute for about 40 seconds (the time depends on different batteries), turn the wheel button to display the following three sets of information pages:

The first page, from top to bottom, from left to right: the total charging time, the charger model, and the current capacity percentage of the battery being charged. The current charge output current and the battery that is being charged are currently charged. The type of battery, the number of battery strings, and information during charging. The current voltage value of each cell of the battery to be charged.

The difference between the second page and the first page shows the current internal resistance of each cell in the lower half of the battery that is being charged.

The difference between the third page and the second page is displayed in the lower half (from top to bottom) of the input port power voltage/wattage, output port battery voltage/wattage, and charger operating temperature.

Press the wheel button during charging to enter the Task Adjust function page. The default function option for entering Task Adjust is Stop (stop). At this time, if you press the wheel button, the ongoing charging task will be stopped. Turn the wheel button to select other function items.

In the Current function item, press the wheel button to pop up the current setting menu, and turn the wheel to select the current value. Here iSDT Charger SC-620 can choose 0.1A~20.0A, SC-608 can choose 0.1A~8.0A (all 0.1A as the unit of selection), after selection, press the wheel button to make the selection.

Confirm that the previous Task Adjust operation is correct, turn the wheel button to select Back, and then press the wheel button to use the new adjustment value to return to continue the charging process.

To end the charging work, turn the wheel button to select Stop, and then press the wheel button to terminate the charging work.

Discharge
The following is a 3S lithium polymer battery connected to the power output port, and the discharge task is used as an example. After the discharge procedure starts, turn the wheel button to display the following two sets of information pages:

The first page, from top to bottom, from left to right: the total discharge work time, the charger model, and the current capacity percentage of the discharged battery. The current output current is discharged, and the discharged battery is currently discharged. The type of battery, the number of battery strings, and information during discharge. The current voltage value of each cell of the discharged battery.

The difference between the second page and the first page is displayed in the lower half (from top to bottom) of the input port power voltage/wattage, output port battery voltage/wattage, and charger operating temperature.

Press the wheel button during discharge to enter the Task Adjust function page. The default function option for entering Task Adjust is Stop (stop). At this time, if the wheel button is pressed, the discharge task in progress will be stopped. Turn the wheel button to select other function items.

In the Current function item, press the wheel button to pop up the current setting menu, and turn the wheel to select the current value. Here iSDT Charger SC-620 can choose 0.1A~5.0A, SC-608 can choose 0.1A~3.0A (all 0.1A as the unit of selection), after selection, press the wheel button to make the selection.

Confirm that the previous Task Adjust operation is correct, turn the wheel button to select Back, and then press the wheel button to use the new adjustment value to return to continue the discharge procedure.

To end the discharge work, turn the wheel button to select Stop, and then press the wheel button to terminate the discharge work.

Storage
The following is a 3S lithium polymer battery connected to the power output port, and the save task is used as an example. After the save procedure begins to execute for a period of time (the time varies depending on the battery), turn the wheel button to display the following three sets of information pages:

The first page, from top to bottom, from left to right: save the total working time, the charger model, and the current capacity percentage of the battery to be saved. The current output current is saved, and the current capacity of the battery that is being saved. Battery type, battery string number, save working information. Accept the current voltage value of each cell of the saved battery.

The difference between the second page and the first page shows the current internal resistance of each cell in the lower half of the battery that is being saved. (The information is not yet displayed on the screen, and it will take some time.)

The difference between the third page and the second page is displayed in the lower half (from top to bottom) of the input port power voltage/wattage, output port battery voltage/wattage, and charger operating temperature.

Press the wheel button during saving to enter the Task Adjust function page. The default function option for entering Task Adjust is Stop (stop). At this time, if you press the wheel button, the ongoing save task will be stopped. Turn the wheel button to select other function items.

5127
5128 Press the wheel button in the Current function item to pop up the current setting menu, and turn the wheel button to select the current value. During storage and charging, SC-620 can choose 0.1A~20.0A, SC-608 can choose 0.1A~8.0A (each 0.1A is the selected unit) current value. During storage and discharge, SC-620 can choose 0.1A~5.0A, SC-608 can choose 0.1A~3.0A (all 0.1A as the selected unit) current value. After selection, press the wheel button to select.

Confirm that the previous Task Adjust operation is correct, turn the wheel button to select Back, and then press the wheel button to use the new adjustment value to return to continue saving the program.

To end the charging work, turn the wheel button to select Stop, and then press the wheel button to terminate the charging work.

ISDT RC Model SC-620 500W / 20A R/C Smart Charger BC650


ISDT RC Model SC-608 150W / 8A R/C Smart Charger BC649

FlySky FS-GT3B 2.4GHz 3CH AFHDS remote control system:

In recent years, FiySky (China) has witnessed its achievements after switching from the first-tier brand remote control battlefield to opening its own products. Among them, the FS-GT2 and FS-GT3 dedicated to remote control cars and boat series with medium and low prices have successfully entered the markets of various countries. In particular, the manufacturer’s quality and performance of the main battle FS-GT3 remote control have also been modified many times from actual combat. In the past year and a half, factories around the world have begun to evolve the top-level remote control from the traditional 2.4GHz module method into a new generation of 2.4GHz integrated design remote control. Fissky (FiySky) also saw this, so it took a lot of manpower to design and test this new FS-GT3B remote control system. The new system has received a lot of positive comments from many foreign manufacturers in the just-finished 9th China International Model Expo.

The newly designed FS-GT3B remote control system:
The factory has received previous experience and players’ rewards. During the development of the FS-GT3B remote controller, it took a lot of thought and development time to develop anti-interference, hand-held form, the convenience of the button position, and re-developed a more user-friendly display setting menu software. Among them, the hand-held design is designed with the ring and throttle positions parallel to each other, and the inside of the two can allow more distance for one palm. This is the most commonly used method in the gun-type remote control and the most commonly used new-generation remote control system. Among them, the position of the female finger holding the force position in the left hand especially leaves D/R and CH3 or a custom key. There is a long silver custom key under the female finger, which can be used for many purposes. It is especially useful and convenient for those who play cars to set these functions in real time.

Intuitive design of LCD display and main function buttons:
The LCD display and main function buttons are located on the top of the remote control. With the usual visual position when you hold the gun-type remote control in your left hand, the FS-GT3B specially designs the LCD display position to use a very intuitive viewing angle instead of turning the remote control to view the LCD display content. In order to control the button position more intuitively, the factory placed the commonly used ST TRIM and TH TRIM at the front of the LCD display near the front of the ring. Unlike the FS-GT3, this time it uses a large-format white backlit blue LCD display that can display all the data. A brand new menu interface simplifies the general setup steps. The menu content is divided into eight categories in a simple way, which is extremely clear and easy to use. And more fully retain the previous generation GT3 functions. Many foreign players with certain eyesight problems reported that FS-GT3 is thin and unclear, so the new FS-GT3B uses extra large fonts. Even older players with presbyopia do not need to take down their glasses each time to see the setting data on the LCD display.

The function uses AFHDS digital automatic frequency modulation technology. The modulation system uses a safer Gaussian Frequency-Shift Keying method. In terms of band, the FS-GT3B can hold 160 units at the same time. This time the FS-GT3B has also been added to 10 sets of car settings memory, and other main functions include SUBTRIM, D/R, E-POINT, ARC, ABS, EXP and so on. Of course, there is also a DSC interface that can be connected to a computer as a simulator. And the receiver also has a new generation of out-of-control protection devices, and the size is only about the size of a coin of the size of the previous generation. It is reported that the FS-GT3B will be released in Western Europe first, while the Asian region will be released later.

Frequency range: 2.40-2.48GHz
Band width: 500Hz
Number of bands: 160
Transmitting power: not higher than 20DBm
Dimensions: 159*99*315 mm
Body weight: 328g

FS RC Model FS-GT3B 3ch 2.4GHz LCD R/C Hobby Transmitter & Receiver TS898

Discussion:
Hi guys I bought 4 lipo batteries from Hobbyking and I have a problem charging one of them new from the box. Red lights are flashing in the charger indicating a problem….. From the factory the “faulty” battery has some charge when I benchtop my boat. I am using a simple budget charger that just tells me when the batteries are charged with a green light (red if they are charging) If there is a problem with the battery the red light flashes and is happening now. My battery: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14678&Product_Name=Turni gy_4000mAh_2S_40C_Lipo_Pack

My charger I am using a simple budget charger that just tells me when the batteries are charged with a green light (red if they are charging) If there is a problem with the battery the red light flashes. The charger does not tell me the charge of each battery
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-2s-3s-balance-charger-direct-110-240v-input.html

Any opinions about what the problem is? Could it be the wire of the charge lead are not soldered properly to the battery? Could it be a battery is undercharged?…. I might send back the battery to HK but the shipping is like $13 and the battery cost about $23. I’d rather fix/repair the battery if it is feasible. Thanks a lot. JC

Reply 1:
If you have a digital volt meter you can check the cell voltages via the balance plug. should be at around 3.6v a cell and have about the same voltage if not try charging the one cell that is lowest at 1.0 amp through the balance plug. to match the cell voltages. then try charging normal.

Reply 2:
Try to charge your battery without balance conector during 10 minutes, and try again with balance conector plugged

Reply 3:
That charger looks like an accident waiting to happen…

Reply 4:
A very good charger isn’ t expensive I bought a SKYRC Imax B6 with aluminium case via rcecho.com, https://www.rcecho.com/SKYRC-iMAX-RC-Model-B6-mini-Professional-Balance-Charger–Discharger-BC041.html 

Reply 5:
Salut Alfa Spirit I found this one on Ebay. Same brand but lower spec and cheaper.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKYRC-Model-e4AC-3A-20W-LiPo-LiFe-2-4S-Balance-Charger-US-Plug-BC010-/391075324783?hash=item5b0de7e36f

Would you recommend it? Has anybody bought that one? Just trying to save some $$$ and learning about the wonderful world of Lipos…. Thanks JC

Reply 6:
You might find some useful info in this thread http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?15943-Turnigy-batteries-quality-problems

Chief

Reply 7:
Yes I am thinking that its the battery that ahs an issue. I am sending it back to HK today. Will also be sending back a 500 Turniguys Typhoon motor that’s not working Will take the risk spending on the shipping cost. Let’s see what’s their customer service like……. Will keep you updated. Now I’m in the market for a reasonable charger and the Imax B6 seems to be a good deal. Anybody have experience with them? Thanks JC

Reply 8:
Don’t be so certain. If you bother to read the reviews, quite a few new owners had major problems with this particular charger. You get what you pay for. “It worked fine for the first week or 2 after that it only charges 2 cell packs.” “Worked wery well during 10 first charges with hxt460mAh 2s lipo. Now one led lights still red when no battery is plugged and doesn’t seems to turn green after a charge. I hesitate to use it now…” “I got this charger, worked once, after that it will overcharge and destroy the battery, don’t buy this charger, try something else.” “After only a few charge cycles the lights always show green and is actually discharging the battery,not so good.” “Just Got this piece of crap and it smoked one 3S 900Mah lipo (swollen + some fire) and does not charge anymore (Yes I tried another lipo). It could have burned my house, this thing is absolutely not safe (see other reviews with the same happening).” “Unfortunately my charger failed after 10-20 charging cycles. When I connect 3s battery one led goes off. After re-connecting the battery it lights all three leds red. But it’s not charging completely. After opening the case I found one IC cracked and burnt.” You get the idea…..

Discussion:
I have had the system for a week now and can say they are working flawlessly. It is very easy to use and the calculations on the display are very helpful in tweaking your setup. I recommend this product for anyone looking to make their life easier and their cars faster!

Reply 1:
Looks like a rebadged Gforce scale setup to me. I love my Gforce x-weight system.

Reply 2:
SkyRC is the ones that actually build the system. So the G-Force is a rebadged SkyRC
https://www.rcecho.com/SKYRC-RC-Model-SK-50001-R-C-Hobby-Corner-Weight-System-Scale-AC965.html

Reply 3:
well slap me and put me a lap down.

Reply 4:
This was discussed a few months ago here, apparently the internals are a little different.

Reply 5:
Now that people have a had a while to play with these scales, how does everyone like them? Has anyone used both the GForce (/ SkyRC) and the Long Acres scales, how do they compare?

Reply 6:
I have scaled my car side by side, they are equal.

Reply 7:
The G-force scales read damn near identical to the Longacre. My reason for buying the Longacre set is I can use them for 1/4 scale in the summer, as well as pan car.

Discussion:
Hey guys and gals, I just bought this really cool charger and the freakin owners manual was written by some english learning chinese individual and it is really hard to follow and not very informative. If you have bought one of these, or have a similar model, could you please give me a site link to an understandable user guide? Thanks for your help! Steve

Reply 1:
Hi Liquid-Moon, Try this:- http://www.flighttechdistribution.co…als/BANBC8.pdf

Reply 2:
SkyRC Imax B8 LiPo Charger can we balance charge 2cells lipo in this unit? balance charging scoket starts from 3 cells

Reply 3:
i think you can get some new from this link: https://www.rcecho.com/SKYRC-Battery-Charger/ i buy a skyrc charger on this wen site.

Discussion:
After reading about the SkyRC iMax B6 Charger on rcgroups, I decided to buy one. I chose a US-based seller, globalexcellent_ltd on eBay, and paid $17.99. The listing claimed that had a max charge power of 50W, and due to the low price, I figured I was getting a clone. I didn’t mind if it was a clone, because my plan was to install cheali-charger on it if it didn’t behave properly. I was surprised when a couple of days later, I received an 80W model.

Reply 1:
Thanks. This worked for me. Works well without temp input 1v voltage. I have burnt upper right big resistor too. Burned when i discharge battery while a go. Only 6s LiPo connected to balance and Voltage port during calibration process.

Reply 2:
Was changing the resistor enough to fix it? I haven’t tried any balance charging after the resistor burned, but it seems to still behave the same as before when doing regular non-balance charging. However, I don’t like to use this charger anymore, since the voltage goes too high during charging.

Reply 3:
I also broke the 4 buttons when I opened the cover. Sorry not reading your page before. The bigger problem was when I unsoldered the buttons, the pcb trace of the stop button was snapped off and it doesn’t communicate with the mcu anymore. I also ordered the genuine imax v2.

Reply 4:
just bridge the break with solder, or if it’s too long, clip a wire off a resistor and solder that in

Reply 5:
I tried to get it calibrated UNLESS HAVE A CALIBRATION CIRCUIT HOOKED UP..The problem is that charger is hard looped now like: LiPo6 Discharge mode >> battery check >> “Connection Error” message. And can not change this behaviour. Sorry not reading your page before. has anyone a solution?

Reply 6:
what do you mean you can’t change the behavior? the buttons don’t work? or you just mean you always get connection error when you try to charge something?

Reply 7:
wen power up there is message SKYRC IMAX B6 then after 2 sec Lipo discarge 1.0A 3.0V (1S) after 2 sec Battery check wait … after 2 sec connection breack when I press a button nothing happens

Reply 8:
Can you please tell me how you fixed this problem ?? Today I tried to CAlibrate my Charger before reading this! with no battery connectoted 🙁 now when charger is on it automatically has selected 2S discharge and it tells me the voltage in battery is high because i have connected 3S lipo… I only own a 3S lipo 🙁

Reply 9:
Thanks for the translation! That is very interesting. All I did was steps 1-3, and then my charger was working OK. I wonder if there are different versions of the firmware. I can’t even try your procedure now, because mine has burned resistors. Hopefully it will help someone else.

Reply 10:
Was able to get menu back somehow. This is my only charger and I do not have a 6S battery. How do I calibrate this one to fix the voltages now. I have an adjustable power supply that can go up to 30v. Can I use this, and if so, how?

Reply 11:
Alternatively, you can use a precision voltage source and resistor bridge to do the calibration: see Joe Rouvier’s post at https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/cheali-charger/5hD6g_MNPdY/lj4DFAqODB0J

Reply 12:
Unable to follow slyfox net solution. Originally entered the calibration menu (Start/Stop) using 2S settings at 2.5a. Now getting over voltage error when it reboots to the discharge menu and can not get out of this loop.

Reply 13:
Hi I’m trying to calibrate IMAX B6 with unknown voltage. I have checked that all default settings are 6S (Discharge/charge/balance). I connect a 6S battery (4.20v per cell) to the balance port and +/- main port. I start the calibration process (press button 1 & 4 while powering up) and see the bank values rise to 4.20 and then settle to 4.19v. Then I restart the IMAX. It does not “automatically” do a discharge/charge/balance etc. If I select “DISCHARGE 6s”, it gives overvoltage error. I have also tried calibrating using a 6s battery connected to the balance port, but using a voltage source to provide 24.2 to 25.2 volts input to the main battery port (and I join power supply earth to balance port earth). After bank calibration, restart still does not “automatically” start any charge/discharge/balance. If I manually choose DISCHARGE 6S, I still get overvoltage error. If I manually choose DISCHARGE 3S (or charge), it seems to start, but the voltage readings are way off. Could it be that there is another fake IMAX B6 type that does not “automatically” start the discharge as described by Albert, alex alex, slyfoxnet etc? Or am I doing something wrong? The translations from Russian are unfortunately difficult to understand but I am determined to get this thing calibrated! Thanks for any help 🙂

Reply 14:
I have the clone 80w charger I tried to get into the service mode from the dec and start but don’t work that way and I hit the stop and start button while powering on and goofed up the programming do I just have to recalibrate this with the 6s battery and also the temp to get this thing to working again all I am getting is discharge and the buttons don’t respond at all but still can get into the calibrate menu from what I am reading I need the 6s battery fully charged and hook up the resistor to the temp probe connection but I am wondering what Value for the temp to calibrate it?

Disussion:
This was just added to the rcecho site last night: SKYRC SWORDFISH RC Marine 120A Water Cooled Brushless ESC $59.9 for platinum members. – or if you wait around on the product page you’ll probably get a link for the lower price too. https://www.rcecho.com/SKYRC-SWORDFISH-RC-Marine-120A-Water-Cooled-Brushless-ESC-Speed-Controller-SL720.html Thoughts, comments? Is this an all-new design as far as anyone knows, or is it a rebranded unit that I don’t recognize? I like that it comes with the programming card 🙂 -Jeff

Reply 1:
I think they are Hifei……………….people have had fits with the aquastar line trying to program them………………the 49 dollar 120a is so simple and they are nearly bulletproof.

Reply 2:
It is a skyrc and it has so many useless features unles if you put some wheels:rofl: http://www.skyrc.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=18_38&product_id=111

Reply 3:
Looks like it could be a winner. May have to give one a try, although like MaW says, my T-120 (which I got for $44) is doing just fine (although one gave up after getting wet).

Reply 4:
The “new” aquastar 120A is sold for more bucks than the Marine 120A. don’t know why. Can’t see the reason looking at the specifications…. The Marine (AKA HobbyWing Seaking 120A) has more motor timing features as well. and less $$.

Reply 5:
Personally i would never try one of the 120 Aquastars………………as i mentioned, i have seen so many threads/posts from folks trying to figure out how to use it. I do however use the Big Aquastar 240hv, but its been very simple to use, maybe it has different setting parameters than the 120’s. The T120 marine at only $49 is my favorite ESC…….must have a half dozen or so………………..i can program them in the field with the tx from memory now if i need to…………..ya know, Beep, beep, beep……..pull trigger etc…………..

Reply 5:
i’m more lazy, I bought a programming card…. 🙂 and I agree the T120 and T180 ESCs are very good.

Reply 6:
I have a program box for the Original Aquastar 120, 240 from HK and it programs perfectly. It also recognises the 200 Swordfish I bought from Steve. Those are all Hifei esc. They are as bulletproof as the T120’s if you add some extra waterproofing.
What programming issues do people have?? The manual states that TX programming isn’t reccomended. This new esc seems to be a bit of an extra fad ish type. Might be great but if it gets wet, there is no shrink you can remove!!

Reply 7:
I love my aquastar 120 and I prgm it with my tx a litte patience goes a long way . This thing has been dunked and still works and on a cc1512 doesn’t even break a sweat <90 degrees . I’ll probably order one of the new ones in the next couple weeks to put in my 5s bby ovalmaster 21 as my ss60 I water-cooled / proofed burnt up on the 3rd run 15$ escs don’t last long go figure

Reply 8:
I like the layout, kind of like the Ul-1 ESC. If it’s anything like the T-180’s, I’m sure it will be solid. All of mine are still running strong. No issues (and I use the BEC!)

Reply 9:
I have a program box for the Original Aquastar 120, 240 from HK and it programs perfectly. It also recognises the 200 Swordfish I bought from Steve. Those are all Hifei esc. They are as bulletproof as the T120’s if you add some extra waterproofing. What programming issues do people have?? The manual states that TX programming isn’t reccomended. This new esc seems to be a bit of an extra fad ish type. Might be great but if it gets wet, there is no shrink you can remove!! All kinds: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/showthread.php?14396-Programming-aquastar-120-a-esc&highlight=Aquastar+esc http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1214040&highlight=aquastar+120a http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1445128&highlight=aquastar+120a and: “I’ve had nothing but trouble trying to calibrate to TX( Spektrum, Futaba, or Tactic.) Been trying different things for about 3 weeks. Finally Futaba kinda worked, but then run a couple sec and cut-off. Tried to reprogram with no luck at all. Waiting on reply from HK.” “I gave 1 crown only because don’t know how to click to place zero. It is not for sale, I don’t need it even free of charge… completely trash!” “peice of crap usb linker didnt work .speedcontrol smoked out firstrun on 4s with a mega acn 22/20/2” “Got the ESC, programmed it(good, it’s not the first 1 I programmed), pushed the throttle(not even in the water) and smoke came out of it. Sent it back. HK said they received it and sent it to their supplier and waiting for an answer, for over 4 months!!!!!!!! Absolutely the worst service on this planet. The service really sucks!!! My advice: Don’t buy.” “Just like reports made in some of the other reviews, this controller crapped out after two minutes running the Genesis on 4S. Ruined the day as it was dead as a door nail. One day later it started to work again on the test bench.” etc……..

Reply 10:
The end user price from SkyRc is 60$, just asked them about it… I might get one to test just for the bling effect. 😀

Reply 11:
Looks like it could be a winner. May have to give one a try, although like MaW says, my T-120 (which I got for $44) is doing just fine (although one gave up after getting wet). Really? Thats not a good thing. I am wondering then if I should spray mine down with some corosion X just as xtra safety then????

Reply 12:
I had Stephen throw this on a HK order; just arrived. Seems more “water resistant” than the earlier T-120. Encased in plastic like the T-180, but my experience with wet T-180’s indicates that some sealant should be employed to provide extra insurance. Also, no choke on the trigger wire like T-180’s. Nifty programming card included in price. Has eight programming options, only 5 can be done with program card – reverse type,motor direction and reverse amount are defaulted to forward only, normal direction, and 25% reverse. Re-programming these options to be accomplished with tx trigger, beep counting, waiting, counting more beeps, cursing, trying again method. Program card functions : Punch Control ( a concept likely borrowed from the design engineer’s Marital Anger Management class) : controls acceleration in five steps; from very limited acceleration ( no more backflips from start ? ) to no limiting Starting Power : 3 steps; Low-any battery type ; normal -high capacity batteries ; high – “you need top quality batteries” Throttle Dead Band : ( their music wasn’t all THAT bad, really ) : 5 steps LVC : 3.0 , 3.1 , 3.2 , 3.3 , 3.4 , 3.5 ( the Auto Lipo choice includes “none” which should disarm the LVC) timing : 0, 5, 10, 15, 20 degrees Will be interesting to see if the LVC kicks in prematurely from instantaneous downspikes rather than average voltage downturn, a big flaw in the T-180 circuit design. Then again if the unit is programmed for limited acceleration and low starting power, downspikes may not be all that prevelant and the LVC can be programmed as you wish.

Discussion:
Seeing these on eBay a bunch. Was wondering if anyone knows if they are any good or what ? Was thinking of one for my monster jam .

Reply 1:
As far as a budget esc goes, I have heard decent things about it.
https://www.rcecho.com/LEOPARD-SKYRC-4370KV-9T-Brushless-Motor-60A-ESC-Speed-Controller-Combo-ME720.html

Reply 2:
seems that hobbywing and skyrc are two good reputation factory from china. both are competitive! http://www.hobbyhot.com/SKYRC-TORO-Model/

Reply 3:
Thanks guys! Probably gonna get a brushless system for the pede.

Discussion:
I’ve just taken delivery of a SkyRC B6AC+ V2 (quite a mouthful). I noted this charger can be controlled via WiFi and iPhone – having downloaded the SkyRC app it seems an easier/more intuitive GUI to navigate than the basic LED screen on the unit itself. So if the WiFi module isn’t too expensive, I might just buy it. Problem is, I can’t find the necessary part (# SK-600075). I’ve googled for a few days, I emailed SkyRC three or four days ago too, but my search has hit a brick wall. Does anyone know where I could track this down, or have any information as to why this part is so hard to find?

Reply 1:
you mean sky rc mini charger?

Reply 2:
part # …SK-600075….wifi module

Reply 3:
Yep, that’s the part number. Seems right now it’s only a number – there’s no actual part for sale… that I can find. Nor have I received any contact back from SkyRC.

Reply 4:
Capt. here.
http://www.the-border.com/SkyRc-Wifi…SKY600075.html
http://www.teamyokomo.eu/skyrc-wi-fi…e-for-toro-esc

Reply 5:
The-Border has the Wifi module in stock. For some reason part is both quite rare and expensive, but they have it in stock & ship it right away. My only question is if there’s a list available of which chargers this works on..

Reply 6:
ebay has them for for around 20-25 bucks, just search “skyrc wifi”.

Discussion:
Hi, Just purchased the Imax B6 AC V2 charger. When I try to charge a lipo with no balance plug it throws an error: Balance Connect Error This error is not even in the manual in the troubleshooting section. I have it on lip charge (no balance) and I have the correct cell count. What does this mean? I have tried several of my older packs with no balance plugs and they all throw this error. Thanks

Reply 1:
So I just got a reply back from the mfg. they say to use a pack with a balance plug? Does anyone charge Lipos without a balance plug anymore? If so what charger would have this function ? Why would the charger have different modes of charging i.e , balanced and unbalanced? Thanks

Reply 2:
The only time I get that error with mine is in the BALANCE Mode. If you don’t have a balance connector it should work in the CHARGE Mode.

Reply 3:
Yea, I have it set to charge mode without the balance and I get the error. I am thinking all my old batteries are going into a saltwater bath and move on. Thanks

Reply 4:
Don’t throw them out yet! Read the charger instructions carefully! You might also check the lipos with a DVM. Just because you set for no balance does not mean that you are in a mode compatible with no balance lead lipos. You should also charge at a lower current than you would using balance connectors. Say 1/10 C.

Reply 5:
I have the exact same problem with my 7.4v, 2S battery. It’s 380 MAH so I tried both .3 and .4 settings. I also tried both ‘charge’ mode and ‘balance’ modes. But I can’t replace this battery with a different one because, AFAIK, it’s the only one that fits my DM007. The only solution I found so far is to use the charger that came with the quad If you find a better solution, please let me know. I will do the same. Thanks,

Reply 6:
I have two older B6 chargers and they both charge in CHARGE mode without balance lead. But my new B6 charger refuses to charge anything LiPo of more than one cell without balance lead connected. I get exactly same error no matter what. I think Imax have decided to couple balance lead requirement with all modes of LiPo charging now. The solution for OP of course is to get a multi-battery board for his battery’s and connect that to the B6 charger. The ones I have are fitted with main power in and balance lead to monitor the multiple packs. It will then not matter if charging one or more packs – connection will be acceptable to the new format B6.

Reply 7:
Further – there is no error in the manual because connection description is to connect both main and balance lead. They have ignored that some models particularly small helis / quads etc, have single lead packs where balancing is done through the one power lead.

Reply 8:
Welp, that answers that … thanks!

Reply 9:
So now I like my new B6 mini as it has PC connectivity built in, iR battery checking as well. It has slightly higher rate at 60W / 6A than the older at 50W / 5A. But my older B6’s get to charge most ‘other’ stuff instead of the new one.

Reply 10:
I think if I had any devices like that, I would probably put a UMX style (JST-PH) connector on the device and batteries. It’s a single small connector that handles both discharge and balance. Batteries with UMX style leads are common so that would save a few minutes on future battery purchases, and UMX wiring harnesses and boards are available if you don’t want to make your own. Reply 11:
All this does is bring you to my solution earlier of the Multi-Pack board. A single connection to the new version of B6 does not allow charging of any LiPo of more than one cell. I can only assume that Imax decided to implement a ‘safer’ regime of requiring the balance lead connected in all LiPo modes to ensure monitoring of cells. It is safer of course – but a pain in some cases and is why I am glad I still have older B6 chargers as well. An example : 9xr 3S LiPo has JST and Balance leads. The balance lead plugs into the radio to power it. The plug / socket needs a hard pull to separate, so I don’t like doing this too often. The JST lead is free unused and can be used to charge the pack. Leaving balance charge for later after so many cycles … My Old B6’s are happy to charge the LiPo without my disconnecting balance lead from radio. But the NEW B6 refuses as it insists on having balance lead as well. So just changing the plug makes no difference – the need is to connect BOTH main and balance leads to charge any LiPo of more than one cell. Note I and OP / another are referring to the LATEST B6 charger not the older. If anyone genuinely has found a way round this other than the multi-board … then we are all ears.

Reply 12:
I’m not sure I’m understanding how this is a “mulitboard” solution or why a muliboard solution is bad, but you can run a UMX connectors to both the mains and the balance without any actual board. (Of course a board and wires are really the same thing electrically but if you want to avoid “board” or “multi” or both you can do that with wires.) Or you can just add a plain old JST-XH balance port to the pack and maker it like any other pack if you prefer that. I agree that requiring the balance port is far safer.

Reply 13:
I’ve run into the same balance connect issue as the op. Is this the balance board I would need to fix the issue? https://www.rcecho.com/KDS-RC-Model-MO-09-Balance-Battery-Charger-Adapter-R-C-Hobby-Connector-AC465.html

Reply 14:
SkyRC vers 1.12 FW solves the balance lead issue and now charge can be done plain for all battery types without need for balance lead. Attached files … as they do not load up on Chargemaster as they should !! Unzip the files … connect B6 and PC …. then run the file … no need for Chargemaster at all. This also appears to be same as for Accucel and Eco6 charger made by SkyRC factory ….

Reply 15:
Thanks. I loaded the file, connected the b6, ran the update and was still getting the same error. I was told that i did not have the balance plug connected, so connected the 2S plug (top right of charger) and it’s working fine now. So i don’t know if it was the update the resolved it, or the fact the other plug wasnt connected to the 2S balance socket. When the battery finishes charging, is there any proper sequence to disconnect everything, or can i just unplug and be on my way?

Discussion:
I got this charger and I was under the impression I would be able to plug it into my wall outlet to charge the lipos. Instead it looks like some type of car charger which is useless to me. Are there wires I can buy to be able to plug this into the wall?

Reply 1:
No. Your charger requires 12V dc, as from a car battery. You will either need a car battery or a DC power supply such as this: https://www.rcecho.com/SKYRC-RC-Model-AC-DC-15V-4A-Battery-Charger-Power-Supply-Adapter-US-Plug-PS592.html

Discussion:
Hey, I received my genuine SkyRC B6 charger from HobbyKing today and I tried it with my Syma X8C batteries. I used the balancing feature and charged with 2A until the two cell reached 4,20V (at least B6 said that). But my voltmeter and my little LiPo battery checker show different voltages: 4,17V and 4,20V and sumed up 8,36V. I know that these are only small differences but I expected it to be really precise (is that the right adjective in that context?). But I have another problem. I bought this cable to charge small 1S batteries (like the Eachine H8 mini ones). But it always get the connection break error. But I think that this means my cable is faulty, not the charger? Thank you!

Reply 1:
Could either be your SkyRC B6 charger or voltmeter or little LiPo battery checker is not that accurate.

Reply 2:
Yeah, I know. But the differences between the LiPo battery checker and the voltmeter are only 0,01V which is okay in my opinion. That’s why I wanted to ask if this is just a normal inaccuracy?

Reply 3:
Are you saying one of the cells is 4.36 volts that’s way overcharged.

Reply 4:
I’m sorry, I meant 8,36V in total.

Reply 5:
May I suggest you read this: http://www.tjinguytech.com/charging-how-tos Good information there on LiPo batteries and chargers.

Reply 6:
That cable is a serial cable so you will need to connect 3 batteries and charge as 3S.

Reply 7:
Thanks! That actually worked. This cable says 1 to 3 charging cable: https://www.rcecho.com/SKYRC-iMAX-RC-Model-B6-mini-Professional-Balance-Charger–Discharger-BC041.html Do you think that with this cable I’ll be able to balance charge just two batteries and let one port empty?

Reply 8:
Well it says “1 to 3” but it looks serial to me and one of the user reviews says (in Italian) that it is serial. Of course you could just take the one you have apart and make it into a parallel cable if you wish (I would.) Parallel is simple – all the reds go together and all the blacks go together. You can either run those same two wires to the balance port or omit the balance port for 1S. (I would keep the balance port since most chargers get a better voltage reading from that port allowing faster charging.) The TJinTech page linked above has an article on parallel charging and cables.

Reply 9:
thank you! I get the part about the connecting all red wires and all black ones together. But how do I connect the balancing cable? Is it necessary as they are only 1S batteries?

Reply 10:
So with a parallel charging cable I can charge only one battery as well? As far as I understood they have to have the same cell count but not the same capacity and on my IMAX charger I use the normal charging mode and depending on how many batteries are connected I select 1-3S? But isn’t it possible that if I charge two batteries one reaches 4,4V and the other one only 4,0 which sums up to 8,4V as well?

Reply 11:
What do you mean by “No, that is not possible.”?

Reply 12:
When you connect two or more batteries in parallel you have connected all the positive leads together and all the negative leads together. Therefore all the positive leads and all the negative leads are mechanically and electrically the same. Therefore it is not possible for any of the batteries to have a different voltage. There may have been differences before the batteries were connected. However as soon as the parallel connection is made the battery with the highest voltage will immediately begin to discharge into the battery(s) with the lower charge. Within a few seconds all batteries will have the same charge. Then when the charger starts the charge process all batteries will be charged until all reach the same end of charge voltage. It is possible that not all of the batteries will have the same internal resistance and in this case the current flowing through each battery will not be the same. However by the time the charge is complete all batteries will have the same voltage. That is what I mean by “No, that is not possible.”

Reply 13:
Akitoyo, I’m having the same problem you are experiencing with my genuine SkyRC B6 charger. I’m charging 850mAh 2 cell lipos and I’m getting 2 different voltage readings, 8.37v at the balance plug and 8.32v at the power plug. I’m not sure which is correct, why I’m getting 2 readings and why I’m not getting a full 8.4v. Maybe someone can shed some light on this.

Discussion:
Here is the out of Box review of the Improved (V3) SkyRC Leopard Brushless Combo. This Combo features a 4370KV 9T Brushless Motor, 60A ESC that can handle up to 3s LiPo and Programming Card. This is an Improved version from the Factory so technically is V3. Big thanks to SkyRC for improving this motor and I hope it will go to market soon.
How to Tutorial Channel: http://www.youtube.com/jthornley12how2s

Reply 1:
is this good for a traxxas slash 2wd

Reply 2:
would this kit do good in a axial yeti

Reply 3:
what connector is it for when it goes into the battery

Reply 4:
Inner is 380 motor due to cooling fins.u better geg full 540 motor.whay more power

Reply 5:
Is it waterproof? Because I want ti make a waterproof sct but I can’t find an budget waterproof brushless setup

Reply 6:
The Programming card is absolutely identical to the Hobby King Turnigy TrackStar’s which would lead one to believe they’re both made by the same company.

Reply 7:
Hai, can I use this motor on my ft009 boat?

Reply 8:
is this a size 380 motor

Reply 9:
Actually RC-Madness they are selling them npw , they have them on E-Bay for an astonishing price of $29.99 US

Reply 10:
stop zooming in and out

Reply 11:
yes but make sure it has the right connector (in this case “ultraplugs” or “Deans” connectors

Reply 12:
no 1/8th scale is to much for it this motor is designed for lighter 1/10th vehicles like 2WD buggies that’s really the limit for this motor because of the “Debonding” issue try saving up a little bit and getting a system that works for your car (I know this comment is 5 months old)

Reply 13:
Damn dude it took me about 2 1/2 sentences before I could figure out what you were saying lol

Reply 14:
Can you give us a link to where you bought it from?

Reply 15:
It should be powerful enough on a 3S Lipo battery pack but it is all down to perception – how fast is fast enough? it should be able to do donuts and wheel spin a lot, especially if RWD or FWD even 4×4 will wheel spin. Heck, I have had a lot of wheel spin from from a 15t can in my 25 year old Optima! and that goes well for what is in it, just awaiting brushless system in video.

Reply 16:
Version 2 is the version that dealt with the de-bonding issues of version 1, it’s say on the box or instructions

Reply 17:
What represents the speed? The KV or the T ? And is this waterproof?

Reply 18:
if is says V2

Reply 19:
look at the different designs on the esc

Reply 20:
can you use a NiMH Battery Pack with this

Reply 21:
I turned my losi drift car into a rally car and killed my NOVAK 5turn in mud! Will this thing be ok for a rally car that will see dirt only this time lol?

Reply 22:
If your me.

Reply 23:
how would you know if you got a improved version

Discussion
Hello I just orderd the leopard skyrc 4370kv 9t motor and 60a speed control combo the reason I an making a new thread about it is because i have tryed posting in other related threads asking what lipo i should get to go with this and still i have gotten no reply. so please help me figure out what it can handle and as always I am cheap so the better for the cheaper price is better for me. here is a link to the same exact model i have ordered: https://www.rcecho.com/LEOPARD-SKYRC-4370KV-9T-Brushless-Motor-60A-ESC-Speed-Controller-Combo-ME720.html sorry for all the unnecessary typing but im going to ask my question in a less confusing way. What lipo can i get for the motor and esc combo stated. (preferably $35 and lower) and I will also need a lipo charger also and need the two to be compatable with my esc, motor,charger and battery. thank you for your help, input, and cooperation.

Reply 1:
Turnigy Nano tech?

Reply 2:
Just get 2S lipo with at least a 40C and basic charger.

Reply 3:
also I forgot to mention that the lipo will go in my stock 2wd slash, do you think they will fit? also I was looking at the gens ace 5000mAh 40C 7.4V Lipo have you heard anything on it?

Reply 4:
I recently bought an esc/motor combo from that same ebay user. Amazingly fast shipping, coming from China. If you don’t have it yet you will soon. As for the batteries, measure your battery tray and compare that to the stated specs of any battery you’re looking to get.

Reply 5:
oh thank you for the input, the combo hasn’t come yet but I ordered it about 8 days ago. if you wouldn’t mind telling me, what motor esc combo did you purchase?

Reply 6:
nice truck, the reason I got a cheaper combo is because I am planning on upgrading to a far better brush-less system, something like yours but first I will be doing mods to my chassis and suspension.

Reply 7:
I was just wondering if the GENS ACE 5000mAh 40C 7.4V Hardcase Lipo Battery Pack is compatable with theLEOPARD SKYRC 4370KV 9T Brushless Motor & 60A ESC Speed Controller Combo, and if I can charge that lipo on the LCD Digital IMax B6 2S-6S RC Lipo/NiMh/Li-ion/LiFe/Nicd Battery Balance Charger? if so thats what lipo and charger I will be getting.

Reply 8:
since the lipo charger I found dose not have a power supply I found this one it is the same brand just a few bucks more and it has an internal power supply, and the power cord.

Review:
The price of this charger will set you back 100 US dollar’s.
Buy via rcecho.com

SKYRC D100 is a twin-channel charger with two independent circuits which can charge two different kinds of batteries simultaneously. It also supports power distribution in AC mode to get max charging power to shorten charging time. What’s more, users could set the terminal voltage by themselves and connect it to PC for PC control and firmware upgrade. Besides that, users could also use it as Lithium Battery Meter and Battery Internal Resistance Meter. There are Automatic Charging Current Limit, Capacity Limit, Temperature Threshold and Processing Time Limit which makes the charger safe to use.

SKYRC D100 is a high-performance, micro processor control charge/discharge station with battery management suitable for use with all current battery types, with integral equalizer for six-cell Lithium-Polymer(LiPo), Lithium iron phosphate(LiFe) and Lithium-Ion (LiIon) batteries; maximum 10A charge current and maximum 100W charge power. The additional LiHV mode is able to charge the new generation of LiPo batteries with an end of charge voltage 4.35 V.

Specifications:
AC Input Voltage: 100-240V
DC Input Voltage : 11-18V
Display Type: 128×64 LCD
Display Backlight: Blue
Case Material: Plastic
Controls: Five Buttons
Case Size: 163x153x72mm
Weight: 975g
PC Communications: USB Port for PC Control & Firmware Upgrade
External Port: 2-6S Balance Socket-XH, Temperature Probe Socket, Battery Socket, DC Input, Micro USB Port for PC.
Delta Peak Detection for NiMH/NiCd: 5-15mV/cell / Default: 4mV/cell
Charge Cutoff Temperature: 20C/68F-80C/176F(adjustable)
Charge Voltage: NiMH/NiCd: Delta peak detection LiPo: 4.18-4.25V/cell LiIon: 4.08-4.2V/cell; LiFe: 3.58-3.7V/cell; LiHV: 4.25-4.35V/cell
Balance Current: 200mA/cell
Reading Voltage Range: 0.1-25.8V/cell
Battery Types/Cells: LiPo/LiIon/LiFe/LiHV: 1-6cells; NiMH/NiCd: 1-15cells; Pb: 2-20V
Battery Capacity Range: NiMH/NiCd: 100-50000mAh; LiPo/LiIon/LiFe/LiHV: 100-50000mAh; Pb: 100-50000mAh
Charge Current: (0.1A-10.0A) x2
Safety Timer: 1-720minutes off
Charge Wattage: AC 100W/DC 100Wx2
Discharge Current: (0.1A-5.0A) x2
Discharge Cut-off Voltage: NiMH/NiCd: 0.1-1.1V/cell; LiPo: 3.0-3.3V/cell; LiIon: 2.9—3.2V/cell; LiFe: 2.6-2.9V/cell; LiHV: 3.1-3.4V/cell; Pb: 1.8V
Discharge Wattage: 10Wx2
Balance Cells: 2-6 cells
Memory: 10×2 Different Charge/Discharge Profiles
Charge Method: CC/CV for Lithium Types and Lead (Pb) Batteries; Delta-peak Sensitivity for NiMH/NiCd.

Package Included:
SKYRC D100 Charger
XH Adaptor X 2
Charging Cable X 2
Banana connectors with XT60 connector Charging Cable X 2
Power Cord

Features:
SKYRC D100 employs an individual-cell-voltage balancer. It isn’t necessary to connect an external balancer for balance charging.
Automatic Charging Current Limit
Capacity Limit
Temperature Threshold
Processing Time Limit
The charger can store up to 20 different charge /discharge profiles for each channel. You can keep the data pertaining to program setting of the battery of continuous charging or discharging. Users can call out these data at any time without any special program setting. The user can check battery’s total voltage, the highest voltage, the lowest voltage and each cell’s voltage by this charger.
The user can check battery’s total internal resistance and each cell’s internal resistance. The user can monitor pack voltage, cell voltage and other data during the charging, view charge date in realtime graphs, and can also control charging and update firmware from “Charge Master”.
The charger allows user to change the end voltage. (for expert user only)

Reply 1:
Nice looking setup! Did you make your own charging cables and balancing cables, or did you purchase them? Did you get the optional WIFI attachment?

Reply 2:
Thanks for this mate, ideal setup and one I’ll probably go for. Did you get all of that on eBay. I’ll have to search uk eBay but I’m sure it’ll be there. Thanks

Reply 3:
I like that charger so much I just ordered one from EBAY. Thanks!

Reply 4:
I don’t even see any of those offered for sale on eBay… so they are not included with the charger?

Discussion:
Normally I would review a single product, but in this case, I feel that it makes more sense for folks to see all the different options available which is why I posted so many links above so that folks can pick and choose what makes the most sense for their needs. For example, if someone wanted to race a 1/10 class which requires a Blinky ESC, then they should consider the 50A ESC, and take special note that ESC has no advanced programming features available because it is permanently locked in “Blinky Mode”. The Bluetooth module doesn’t appear to be compatible, but the Programming Box and USB Link are listed in the manual. If someone wanted to run in an open modified 1/10 class, then they should consider the 120A ESC which offers Timing and Boost, but you will be required to purchase one of the 3 different programming tools. There is no way to get the ESC to enter into “programming mode” without an external programming tool. Note that this ESC will automatically go into “Blinky Mode” if you disable both TurboTiming and Boost.

Discussion:
Just wondering if anyone has any success installing firmware on the SkyRC RS16 Charger. The Chargemaster software seems to tell me that there is new firmware for it, but I can’t select it nor install it. I have tried the software on a 64 bit Win 7 PC and an old Win XP PC with no luck. I have sent them an email, and had a look around the net, but yet to find any answers.

Reply 1:
In the same boat as you Burlap Installed/un-installed twice, tried the repair part of the software too, in both my Win 7 (32bit) and XP Pro (32bit) machines, and all I kept getting was ‘Charge Master has encountered a problem and needs to close’. So it will be interesting to see first; if we get a reply to our emails and secondly, what the solution to this problem will be. Other than this Sky-RC ‘Charge Master’ Software, all of their other Sky-RC products are excellent.

Reply 2:
The problem Burlap is facing is bit different from yours, what he faces is that he can not upgrade the firmware of RS16 Charger, while we do not realise a new one. I think they mean they have not released a new firmware update yet. Acutally, I check with our R&D colleagues on the problem you are facing for several times, they have not met this before as the computers we are using is also windows system, and is ok. Could please add my? (I have removed this private request detail) My R&D colleague gives me document might help to solve the problem you are facing, while I can not attached that via this email as that document is much bigger (41.0MB). Regards&Thanks,

Reply 3:
I know this thread originated a little while ago but I just found it. I reached out to my contact at SkyRC to see if they have any updated firmware. If they do I will make it available for download in our “Downloads” section on our site.

Reply 4:
Thanks for the tip mtpocketsracing; much appreciated. Although, and I’m not sure where I read it, but Hitec maintain that the Software/Firmware which is contained in “Their” version of the SkyRC charger, is Hitec’s own and very different to that of the SkyRC version. That may or may not be true, as the Hitec marketing mongrels probably need some way of justifying their considerable price difference of the same product.

Reply 5:
According to the person at SkyRC that I am in contact with, there is no current firmware updates of this particular product, at this present time. But if you can make the 41.0MB ‘Document’ (mentioned in the email copy above) available for download on your site. That would be great!

Reply 6:
Thanks for the heads up on that mtpocketsracing Would that also imply there is no new firmware updates for either rendition of this awesome little charger, yet.

Reply 7:
I heard back from my guy at SkyRC and he said there is no other software available other then the ChargeMaster software on their site, and he did not know anything about the 41.0MB “document”. I asked him to do a little more digging and see if he can turn up anything else, I will keep you guys updated with anything I hear back.

Reply 9:
Indyaner: I have the same problem as you do. The software only says “Not connected”. I can not connect to the charger, I have tried everything, just about to loose it… Some general thoughts: Do I need to install some kind of driver (except the chargemaster software)? Do I need to use a special kind of USB cable, or is any micro-USB cable OK?

Reply 10:
Have you guys tried the Hitec software as mentioned above? Although we are a SkyRC dealer we cannot get those charger sin the USA due to the partnership Sky has with Hitec (they do make the chargers for Hitec and are the exact same ones).

Discussion:
After much much searching for a cheap new ESC for my speed passion RS2 (due to the ESC that comes with it being so rubbish), I had almost narrowed it down to an Ezrun 60a for

Reply 1:
Looks identical to hobbywing esc and programme card I have and motor looks identical to the ez run. I would take a punt at that price.

Reply 2:
The review I linked to is pretty old too and the eBay link is for the v2 model.. So what he said^^^

Reply 3:
Tempted to get one for my drifter instead of swapping the esc

Reply 4:
Had another wee look, one thing that worries me it the burst current. Most ESC’s seem to have a continuous current then a much higher burst current, like the Ezrun has a continuous of 60a and a burst of 360a. However, the leopard states a continuous of 60a and a burst of 90a, that cant be right, can it?

Reply 5:
i have this combo but unfortunately not in the truck yet so i can’t tell you anymore details other than its meant to be good quality combo for the money …. the motor being the weakest link though on the version 1 , don’t know if they beefed it up on the v2 …… the review above is also correct regards the programming card , it is a little tacky but the one i have is a version 2 and DOES have the ability to change the timing !! i also read somewhere that the hole in the motor where the wires come out needs to siliconed up or plastic dipped as it lets in sand\grit\dust

Reply 6:
Anymore feedback on this combo? I purchased the 4370kv combo today for an e-firestorm. Have read poor reviews but have also read great ones and even ways to fix the problems they do have. I decided it was worth a punt for the money. Also, what were delivery times like? I went with the other main seller of these on e-bay who says they are in Britain but I suspect are in Germany! Paid slightly more as a result but will avoid import duty.

Reply 7:
Same as the Etronix Photon SBS 2.0 motor and pit card, just in orange, not blue.

Reply 8:
I have that combo in 9T, works fine, purchased from ebay from China,

Reply 9:
Ive got the V2 photon so that esc card is exactly the same. Reply 10:
Love this combo. Got one in my Mad Rat! Compared to my old eZrun, I prefer it massively! It also seems faster than the eZRun. The price is fantastic too! Just a bit of advice, don’t let the motor temps go over 140F or the motor will de-bond. The bonding material isn’t brilliant. Keep it below 140F and you’re fine.

Reply 11:
Its like traction control basically like on the castle esc’s.

Discussion:
So I just ran into a issue with my Ez-Run ESC not wanting to play well with my FlySky Rx+Tx, it wouldnt correctly map the end points for my Throttle/brake/rev, so it would apply brakes half the time i let off throttle, would randomly jump into twitchy reverse, and wouldnt go to max throttle/rev. So long story short….im just gonna go with a new Brushless combo. I bought the – Leopard TORO SKYRC 9T 4370kv RC brushless Motor & 60A V2 ESC Read some decent reviews but couldnt find much on here about it (other than the guy that had probs binding his flysky to it…great -.- …. lol) Anyone have any thought/opinions on this motor/esc tho? I sorta jumped the gun on it cause it was a good deal.

Reply 1:
pics? i have a Toro on my shortcourse and its awesome.. so much power! and the drive out shaft is 5mm thick!!! if its the same as the shortcourse i have no issues with it.. some other guy on the forums asked about this a while back also… check below…

Reply 2:
Thanks! Ill deff post some pics/thoughts once it comes, should be 5-7 days 😀 Cant wait, thanks for the great info and link to that thread!!

Reply 3:
you are most welcome.. where did you buy it if you dont mind me asking?

Reply 4:
Bought it off rcecho, thru Top-Rc i believe, was $67

Reply 5:
best of luck trying to get ur bl system to calibrate to your flysky radio system i have owned mine for a month and it wont calibrate to the flysky and i cant get any replies for tech advice from the parent company on reasons why it not working. I pray you dont share the same issues i am having. I run a new FS-gt3c radio system. this my thread on this bl system http://forum.driftmission.com/Thread-leopard-v2-bl-combo-troubles#.UVrENZNwp48

Discussion:
These new touchscreen chargers T6755 and T6200 from Skyrc seems to be quite interesting.
https://www.rcecho.com/SKYRC-Touch-System-T6755-AC-DC-Professional-Balance-Charger-US-Plug-BC469.html
http://www.skyrc.com/index.php?route…product_id=173
The T6755 and T6200 are retailing at about $90. Hope to see some reviews on them soon.

Reply 1:
I have mixed feelings about touchscreen chargers. While I see the apeal from a controls perspective the question of toughness and long term durability of them concern me. Also I would rather see them put more watts in then a fancy screen.

Reply 2:
The T6200 looks very nice, but it is very difficult to find due to the limited dealer network they have. Very similar to the Team Orion chargers.

Reply 3:
I Ordered one from Helipal , it should be here real soon I will let you know how it is.

Relply 4:
Hi Tom, Did you got it alredy??? Can you tel us how it is? Thanks Harel

Reply 5:
Hi Harel Yes I did get it, But i have not had the time to use it yet. It does however look very nice and built very well. I will let you know more when i can. Tom PS Helipal shipped it very fast and I did get it in 5 days.

Reply 6:
Hi tom, Thanks any way i order one hope to get it soon to israel and i will place some photos and a reviwe. Harel

Reply 7:
So far the overall performance has been good with a few improvements needed: – Very nice and user friendly interface. The touchscreen works great with light finger pressure. – Unit is well built and solid. Fan kicks in at internal temp of approx 56degC. Not very noisy. There’s only one fan built in. – On eneloop batteries, very reliable charge termination. My optimum setting is 4mV/cell for delta peak, and 36degC for the overtemp protection. The temp probe is magnetic and sticks to the battery with ease. The delta peak detection kicks in most of the time before the overtemp error. With other types of NiMH cells e.g. powerex, the delta peak sensitivity needs to be changed to about 9 mV/cell. – On A123, the normal charge termination works well. However the fast charge algorithm seems to be exactly the same as the normal charge. So the fast charge is currently no diff from the normal charge. Once the peak voltage of 3.6V/cell is reached, the charging current gradually reduces to about 0.14A before terminating. This ramp down take some time, maybe about 20 mins. Feedback has been given to Skyrc to increase the termination current for fast charge. – The PC-based Chargemaster software is not working. When connected to my PC (Win 7 64-bit), the software says “not connected” but in the charger LCD, it says “connected to PC”. I cannot charge or update firmware through Chargemaster. Feedback has been given to Skyrc. Will be testing the cell balancing features soon.

Reply 8:
This Charger T6755 has only a cycle mode for charging/discharging on NiCd/NiMH Cells, not for LiIon, LiPo, LiFe and Pb!

Reply 9:
I have the T6200 charger. So far I have some complains. 1. When you do a balance charge, after process begins, you can touch a button called “balance”, so you can watch the voltage per cel. In same screen there is a feature that display the internal resistance of the entire battery (plus cable according manual). The problem is sometimes the internal resistance reading just dont work. its pretty random. Besides, comparing the readings against my iChargers, the t6200 is pretty off, most of time twice as much. 2. I think voltages reading are not accurate. When battery is full, t6200 multimeter shows 4.2v per cell, as it should be. But comparing against 5 different charges I have (multiple brands), plus at least 10 of those portable voltage readers, it reaches only 4.18v per cell. There is a setting where you can change the final lipo voltage. I could just change to 4.22, but I would not trust on t6200 multimeter. 3. The worst thing I found is a damn bug. This is about when you put a full charged lipo and want to use storage or discharge mode. The charger suppose to have 40w discharge rate. But the interesting part is: no matter how much current you choose to discharge, it will show same wrong value like discharging at 8.36A when the charger is discharging at most at 0.300mah only. So, its useless. mAh discharge read shows high numbers (because it is calculate with that wrong number [8.36A] and time). Just FYI. I put a 6s 3000mah battery with 4.2v each cell (full lipo) and choose to storage (tried discharge mode too) at 1.5A. Reading showed 8.36A always and when lcd showed 10.000MAH burned (1 hour later), I still had 4.10v each cell. So, storage mode and discharge mode used with a full lipo is useless 4. This charge likes to work hot. Internal temperature reading showed 80oC while charging every one of my 6S lipo. Internal fan starts to kick in just over 56oC and have trouble to keep things cool. I am not sure if this charger suppose to work as hot as mine, but certainly is not usual. And those reading is about using only 120w of 200w allowed. I have no idea what would be this charger behavior on a 200w demand. So folks. Fast your sit belts. Charger is pretty handy and nice, but so far I would wait for a new firmware release (and I pray for that) and it can be updated through an USB port. My best wishes.

Reply 10:
I got the skyrc T6755 from rcecho, and tried several settings but I won’t charge more than 3,4-3.6 A. Suppose that is a software bug too?

Discussion:
Anyone have any experience with this charger? SKYRC 6X80+ BLUE VERSION CHARGER

Reply 1:
I got this charger about a week ago, so far I like it. The range on the bluetooth is limited but works. I posted a vid on youtube showing how the bluetooth function works.

Reply 2:
I wonder if there is normally a Bluetooth turns itself off after a few minutes? Sometimes it says that I am connected but in the app it says that there is no SKYRC 6×80 +. Sometimes when Bluetooth is turned itself so it can suddenly go on again. Bluetooth light turns off when SKYRC switch off Bluetooth and lights up when it works. The range on the bluetooth is limited? 10 meter? 3 meters should work.

Reply 3:
I have not had those problems. As long as the iphone screen is on it will stay connected. One thing i have noticed though is when you start a charge using the charger you can’t connect to charger with iphone. My range is pretty good.

Reply 4:
I have been in contact with SKYRC they say it should not be so but Bluetooth is turned off on SKYRC 6×80 + when you lose the connection with SKYRC 6×80 +. I would like the Bluetooth always on with a password. On Android, I got up for access password.

Reply 5:
I got this charger about a week ago, so far I like it. The range on the bluetooth is limited but works. I posted a vid on youtube showing how the bluetooth function works. Appreciate your vid review, however I was wondering about the accuracy of this charger especially with respect to balancing of cells, actual charge voltage vs. unit display etc. I’ve read of some chargers which either over-charge the batteries or do a poor job in balancing across cells. Thanks in advance for your feedback

Reply 6:
I had no trouble balancing a 2600 mah 2s lipo. However when charging a new 7200 2s lipo at 1c it took hours snd put in about 5000 mah. I had to stop charge because I needed it. I have not charged that battery yet again but will post here how it does. Is that amount of charge time normal?

Reply 7:
Balance current is only 200mA/cell so if it is out of balance could take a while. However more likely is that you hit the safety cut off. By default it will not put more then 5000 mah into a battery. Go to the “Program Select System Set” menu and turn “Capacity Cut-Off” to OFF.

Reply 8:
I have the safety cut off set right but here is what happens. It will put in about 4500-5000 or so mah and after that it does not stop charging but charge at an extremly low rate. What setting do I have wrong?

Reply 9:
I bought it to be able to monitor it from a nearby room, but I wonder if something is wrong with mine. It only works from 2-3 meters from the charger, so I find it useless. Should I complain or do other owners have similar range?

Reply 10:
I get the same range. If you are in the same room you can get close to 10m. If there is a wall in between then range is very limited. The bluetooth function is useless to monitor charger because of the range, but is great for setting up charger. Much easier to setup using phone than using the menus on charger.

Discussion:
Hi buddies, I want to buy my first charger, but I am a bit confused. There are two (obviously 4) products related to iMAX B6. I know, SkyRC is the genuine one, so I eliminated the others. But now, there are two different chargers: 1. https://www.rcecho.com/SKYRC-QUATTRO-B6AC-Professional-Balance-RC-Charger–Discharger-UK-Plug-BC581.html 2. https://www.rcecho.com/iMAX-B6AC-Digital-Li-Po-Lithium-Polymer-Balance-Charger.html The first one is SKYRC and the second one is SkyRC. I don’t know which one is the genuine one. Besides, what are the differences between these two? The parameters are same. And finally, I don’t want to use a power supply, I want to charge my lipos with city electricty. Soi I have to buy an adapter. Is this the correct one for these chargers? http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-PD…r-p-49439.html Thank you very much in advance for your helps.

Reply 1:
But that is exactly is power supply. Sorry i dont understand. For the price of imax b6 or b6 mini i would ad a few more money to get a Turnigy Reaktor instead, bigger power better quality.

Reply 2:
I ordered an IMAX B6AC V2, sorry. I wish I had ordered a Turnigy Reaktor as you said.

Reply 3:
If you bought the B6AC … then you don’t need a power supply …. the AC in the name tells you it has its own power supply built in. But if you have a B6 without AC supply built in – then yes your 12v 100A supply will work as the charger will only ask for what power it needs.

Reply 4:
Sorry ? Why .. I have two B6’s and a B6 mini .. and very happy with them … A lot of people use them and the other 6 chargers …. Accucel etc. The only reason to go for a Reaktor or such is the higher charge rates possible … but if you don’t intend to have large packs – then it’s power for nothing.

Reply 5:
I use a Icharger. 208B.. Me and many many racers have found that the Chargers give use more watts per pack. so theirs no thing as power for nothing.. I have tested it on my 3 cell 2200mah 25c battery and I get almost 2200mah outa a pack and still in the safe lipo range . of 3.65 volts a cell. as you did not post what your batterys are or what your charger needs to be . and a AC/DC charger will not give you your 60watts of charge power .on AC mode at best it will be 40 watts..Only a true 12v+ PS will give you what charger is stated as.

Reply 6:
Sorry to argue that one … my B6AC before the power supply gave out did give more than 40W … it’s simple maths when you read the display of what volts and amps are during charging … plus the B6 is 50W anyway NOT 60W … The B6AC in fact has a normal brick power supply inserted into the case – it’s not on the board or a regulator as some others. It’s why the B6AC case is so much bigger than the DC only version.

Reply 7:
I just purchased a Imax B6 mini I wonder if I made a big mistake It does charge 1S alright but in trying to charge my Eflite 3S 11.1 2200mah no can do I hooked it up to a 3s balance port, adjust settings, then hit Enter/start button and get the following error message CONNECT ERROR chk main port next I connect the battery to the power out on the battery BALANCE CONTROL Error any ideas’s anyone? Balance Connect Error I bot this charger so as to be able for it to run STORAGE MODE on y e3S batteries an y help would be much appreciated Roger

Reply 8:
You should read manual – this charger requires BOTH main and balance leads of lipo to be connected …. main lead received the charger output, balance lead gives the monitoring side.

Reply 9:
My SkyRC charger’s USB port failed after only 1 year. I can’t recommend SkyRC products anymore. Specifically, I also have the Imax B6 mini. After 1 year, I’m forced to buy another charger It will not be a SkyRC charger that is for sure.

Discussion:
Hi folks, I am looking for a new charger and the B6 Mini came up in my search. However I can’t seem to find a lot of experiences from with this charger exept for the very few who are on the Banggood website. And these don’t go in to details such as weither it’s accurate or not, balances correctly etc… https://www.rcecho.com/SKYRC-iMAX-RC-Model-B6-mini-Professional-Balance-Charger–Discharger-BC041.html The biggest batteries I own at the moment are 3S 2200’s and this will be the case for a very long time. To me it seems like a pretty decent charger for $40 and I like the fact that you can hook it up to the PC and there’s the possibility to control it with your smartphone. Do any of you own this charger and are happy with it?

Reply 1:
I own one and love it – easy to use I charge a larger battery than you an E-Flight 3000mAh 30C and she does great – now make note of a few things Only comes with 12 DC battery clips and so I had to find a wall adapter The temp strap add on works great The wifi module works well ! Not amazing Over all happy with the foot print and the usage / make sure to buy a real one lots of fakes !!

Reply 2:
goober … where did you get WiFi module – still cannot find on BG site .. Nigel

Reply 3
Thank you for your answer GooberGuz. I still hesitate because the Turnigy Reaktor 300W (rebranded iCharger 206) is only +/- $25 more. They both need an additional power supply however a 300W power supply costs also a lot more than a 60W one.

Reply 4
Most chargers in this range need separate power supplies and tbh – I prefer that … Myself and many others I know have had in-built power supplies fail in various and you end up with separate anyway. The chargers without built-in are smaller and more compact as well. Once I get info from Goober about the WiFi module – I might grab one of these mini’s to go alongside the 2 B6 standard chargers I have … The bits that interest me are the PC connectivity – why I want to know about WiFi – and the IR measurement. I have a dedicated IR meter – but it’s a pain and needs power supply and so on … so I rarely use it. This with built in facility will give me a reference check routine that is easier to use.

Reply 5:
Wall adaptors are two a penny on ebay .. HK .. rcecho…. and many shops. For this a minimum spec of 60W and 6A is required … but that is minimum. Personally I prefer to go higher spec and then adaptor is not pushed to limits when you set charger to max. I bought adaptor of ebay that is said for LED light strips and rated at 100W or 10A max. Price was about $15 incl. shipping. I have had a number of 5A adaptors supplied with my chargers just give out after about a year or less use … my B6 50W chargers pushing them to limits. This mini charger is rated at 6A … so do yourself a favour … get a 10A unit … Plugs can always be changed / sorted at local electrical shop.

Reply 6:
Thanks for your suggestion but since I’m outside the US shipping adds a lot to the price so it’s a bit to pricey for me. If I would need a powerfull power supply I was thinking of using an LED strip power supply like this one: https://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-12V-30A-360W-Switch-…-p-39987.html?

Reply 7:
If only staying with a sub 100W charger – then a 100w adaptor is more than enough and basically they are priced per watt in effect. My two 50W B6 chargers can if I really wanted to – be powered of the one adaptor I have …. but that would then at times push the limits. So I have a 50W adaptor – was a warranty replacement by the ebay seller for one charger … and the 100W adaptor I bought for the other. In reality – there is no real reason to do an overkill on adaptor capacity … unless later you wish to upgrade to higher capacity charger or multiple set-ups. When people talk of Computer power supplies – these are usually people who are running multiple or higher powered set-ups well above the average sunday flyers needs. They would argue though that they themselves are Sunday flyers !! What I suggest – is sit down. Think it through … What will be your needs in say 2 years time ? Personally I think 2 years is the longest time to think ahead because of failure rates and replacement of gear. In 2 years most of us will be flying different gear or have modified requirements.

Reply 8:
I use 106/Reaktor 300W and friend of mine has the B6. I’d go with the former… You get better diagnostics/info and you can charge a set of 3S batteries at one go. Also the build quality might well be better.

Discussion:
Anyone using this ESC? I’ve been searching for reviews on RCTech and the net but have found nothing. This ESC looks promising with the all the features and price under $100 USD.

Constant/Burst Current: 120A/760A Motor Compatible: Brushless Sensor & Sensorless ESC Car Compatible: 1/10 and 1/12 Buggy and Truck 1/10 and 1/8 Crawlers Motor Limits: 5-6S NIMH or 2S LIPO–e3.5T(1/10 Buggy), e5.5T(1/10 Truck) 8-9S NIMH or 3S LIPO–e5.5T(1/10 Buggy),e8.5T(1/10 Truck) Resistance: 0.0003ohm Battery Cell Count: 4-9S NIMH or 2-3S LIPO BEC Output: 6V@3A, line Size: 39x38x20mm (LxWxH) Weight: 45g (w/o wire) FAN: 5V@0.2A , MAX 12.6V

Reply 1:
These are rebranded Hobbywing Xerun 120A V3.1 ESC’s. Should get you better searches, as everything I’ve read says they are great.

Reply 2:
Id also like to know how people are getting on with these. Even if they are rebranded I don’t think you can look at the HW esc and think that it is this one

Reply 3:
ummm…yeah, you can https://www.rcecho.com/SKYRC-TORO-TS120-RC-Sensored-Brushless-Motor-120A-ESC-Speed-Controller-SL790.html the difference – hobbywing gives you the solder posts and this toro one don’t remember back in the day of brushed motors and Tamiya’s Voltac speedo??? that was a 100% re-branded KO speedo – but completely done in Tamiya blue and Tamiya stickering

Reply 4:
Is there any source that proofes that it is a Hobbywing? The size is very different and the Toro doesnt have the alloy case. Even if its made by HW which is very possible its obvious not the same speedo.

Reply 5:
I have this esc and run it with a novak 4.5t 550. Seems fine. Has the ability to adjust throttle and brake curves via PC.

Reply 6:
I’d say it’s a safe bet both the Toro and the Turnigy are made by Hobbywing, as Hobbywing make gear for a few other brands, it would likely be damn near the same internals, with a cheaper spec plastic case, software looks less tarted up, but functions are the same in every way. A week or so back, I had a strong urge to buy the Toro, only problem is the almost pointless nature of blinky modes on brands/models that may never get submitted to ROAR for approval, making one of the biggest selling points of an ESC that will do Mod/Boost stock/Blinky all in one is negated by it not being legal in blinky.

Reply 7:
I run the toro sc120 with a 4000kv 550 in my scte and the only thing i would want more would be the ability to run sensored. I got mine as a combo with a 4600kv for $103 shipped from japan to my door. it comes with a programming card but usb/pc programming would be nice too. All told i’m very happy with the combo. just wish i had gotten it with the 4000kv instead of the 4600kv, since we’ve moved indoors to a virgin clay track that is smaller then the outdoor track which has closed, I had problems keeping the motor cooler. It was running at 150-160 after 6 min. the 4000kv comes of at 130-135 after 6 min.

Reply 8:
I run my toro ts120 with a novak 4.5t 550 with sensor wire and its performs well.

Reply 9:
I’m seriously thinking about picking one of these up. Anyone try the bluetooth module on this one yet?

Reply 10:
I have the the TS120 with program card and the bluetooth module but i haven’t installed it in anything yet. I know one guy who’s using it in a 4wd buggy and he hasn’t mentioned anything bad about it, just that it’s working well for him and he likes it

Reply 11:
Has anyone tried one of the Beeman x10 ESC and motors? The ESC looks like the HW v3.1 and has the all aluminum case. The Programmer is an identical match and the motors seem to be a ThunderPower clone possibly.

Discussion:
Hello! I want to run a 1/8 Truggy constantly on 6s and i was looking for a motor for it. What sold me was the 18 Slots stator, meaning that trothle will be smooth with no cooging at low speed’s being sensorless and it’s a 6pole motor! What an heck of motor? Or is this all hype? I was serious thinking of a Leopard Motor the 4092… but after seing this…. Leopard is 4 pole… and god knows how many stators…

Reply 1:
The Tekin T8 Gen 2 motors are king in 1/8th… __________________ Serpent Viper 977e, Serpent Project 4x, Serpent 811T-TE Truggy, Serpent 811e 2.1, Serpent 411 4.0 Eryx, Serpent SRX-2 RM, Serpent SRX-4, Serpent F110-SF2, Serpent F180, Serpent 748 Natrix WC, Serpent Cobra GT 3.0, Serpent SRX8, Serpent S811 2.2, Baja 5B Flux, Atomic AMZ 1/27th, Schumacher GT12 SS. Sanwa, Ielasi Tuned Novarossi Racing Engines, Tekin, Hobbywing, Muchmore.

Reply 2:
IMO… The import brand motors are a relatively low risk. In most cases they are made by the same factories that make the premier brands, at 1/3 the cost (to you).

Reply 3:
If its a anything like its 4 pole counterpart x8st sensored motor(which it probably is)ill say you wont find much better and ive used the mamba monster 2200kv and xerun 2200 kv aswell and the toro ran cooler and more explosive than both on 6s lipo with xerun 150a esc for 2yrs befold I sold it.

So far for me toro products have been top notch. I couldn’t believe the performance I was getting with there stuff. Of you want one of these get ahold of beaker151 here on Rctech as he is a distributor for skyrc. Also discountrcstore.com and caster racing parts.com can both get them in for you as well.

Reply 5:
I love mine. I run the 1550 on 5s in my et48 and it’s incredibly smooth and has tons of power. I think it’s a badass motor and way better value than the others. I wasn’t happy with the hobbywing motor but this one is much better.

Reply 6:
Hello all. As stated I am the US distributor for SkyRC and I am working as hard as I can to bring their products to the US. So far the products have been very impressive and I have been receiving great feedback. I am working to get the needed products roar approved, a dealer network across the United States, and racers/people who can provide support and knowledge for the products. Please do not let the lack of information of the products scare you. Skyrc has been in business for nearly 10 years and their main business was manufacturing products for other major brands, so most likely at one point in time you have used a skyrc product. This is really the first time a solid effort has been made to bring brand awareness to the Skyrc name here in the US. So please keep an eye out they have some really cool and great products that I will be bringing here to the US. Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

Reply 7:
looks good, I would get me one but currently have enough brushless motors. I think we will hear more of them in the future. Leopard are ok, but there is other and better stuff, like the Toro ESC, motors. Reply 8:
Sorry to revive this, but does anyone have experience with their 1/8 ESCs in a truggy? Thanks!

Reply 9:
Their ESCs are the same as the TrackStar Gen II 120a and 150a ESCs. Lots of people (including myself) use them in their buggies and they’ve been very reliable.

Reply 10:
I have a x8st 2000kv with a trackstar 150a genII and couldn’t be happier with it.

Discussion:
Hi all, I have been a long time reader, but a new member YAY I have a 3906 emaxx, and i am upgrading to a BL system. I know i do not want the castle, tekin, or any other high end combo solely because of the price. I am willing to pay up to 150-200 for the esc and motor that I get. I would love all of your comments on suggestions. I have found this combo https://www.rcecho.com/SKYRC-TORO-1-8-RC-Model-Buggy-X8P-2320KV-Brushless-Motor-150A-ESC-Combo-ME765.html And would like to know your thoughts. First of all, is toro even a good brand? Both the motor and esc look oddly similar to the ******* ********* products. I believe those are quite well built, so why wouldn’t these? I am looking into this combo because it is 2320kv which should give good speed on 4s, but it is also a 6 pole motor which should add some torque. Am I correct in my thinking there? I am going to run 4s lipo with a 72t spur and an undecided pinion. And for the record, i have already upgraded to 3.3 driveline, 4 screw diffs, and am waiting for my steel idlers and Robinson Racing slipper kit to come in. does anybody know what size drill bit to use for the input shaft roll pins? Im hoping to get the motor and esc soon. If youve read all of this, i thank you for your comments and thoughts, i know you are all a great community here and i look forward to helping others once i have the knowledge

Reply 1:
the only two thing to really let go on my 3906 were a center shaft and the trans idler past that no problems ,now on to the ecs i would do all the reserch you can to find out if its rebranded . dont like the copied stuff never turns out well but that motor for some reason sounds like a boat motor ,i used 6 pole and the 12pole have nutty power

Reply 2:
Thanks for the help dash. What makes you think it is a boat motor? I hope this is just rebadged… Right now I am SERIOUSLY considering getting a 4074 2150kv tacon, and a xerun 150a esc. Like if I dont find out about this combo by later today, I am getting the tacon + xerun.

Reply 3:
Have you looked into the hobbywing 150a combo they have with xerun hw motor? Works great I have the 120a combo and runs very cool check out my thread in the brushless forum posted vids and pics of it running on 4s as that’s max I can do with Mine and its plenty geared 21/65 thought of going 21/58 but no need for the added speed it would get as I don’t run too much speed passes more playing around or off road. Another thing order express shipping very fast compared to reg. Shipping from them for mine to here in 3-4 days from when I ordered.

Reply 4:
You run the 120a in your Emaxx? Seems too small? I will check out your thread for sure!

Reply 5:
https://www.rcecho.com/HOBBYWING-XERUN-4274-2000KV-Brushless-Motor-EZRUN-WP-SC8-120A-ESC-Combo-ME222.html this is what i have been running and some here use it as well even in a e revo brushless as well. https://www.rcecho.com/HOBBYWING-XERUN-4274SL-2000KV-Brushless-Motor-150A-ESC-LCD-Program-Card-ME237.html this is the one i was talking about just a little bigger esc and able to run 6s lipos. The 120a is not too small maybe in size but it runs cool 111 is the highest temp i ever got on mine and motor 126 with the current gearing of 21/65. there was a few threads stating the amp draw of the MMM being 120a only now i hear its 150a. I also like the 120a being waterproof compared to the old MMP+MMM now waterproof on the MMM2 but wait and see the bugs in it first from everyone using it.

Reply 6:
I see, what kind of customer support is there with the xerun/ezrun stuff?

Reply 7:
Well it is located in China so support is limited. Some have bad luck and some get good luck I have never dealt with them though. Anything besides tekin, castle, traxxas mmm is going to have OK support but those companies have great support.

Reply 8:
the 3906 trucks are not heavy a 120 would be fine in there , i have a 3906 with a velineon in it on 3s geared 18/66 no heat issues fans on the motor and ecs , on vid we clocked the truck at 48 mph. the two speed trans really helps. i bash in first gear, play in grass,climbimg and wheelies ,now if i need alittle more wheel speed mud snow jumping or speed runs i just click over and i got it this is a great truck but with the trans being kind of weak compared to the 3905,03,and 08 trucks a big brushless system is not recommended until you do some mods.

Charger SkyRC MC3000
SkyRC makes advanced charger and some other equipment. This charger is a very advanced charger for cylindric cells of just about any type. This charger is more advanced than the usual hobby charger, but it is designed to handle four cells independently and not battery packs.

I got the charger with a power supply and a mains cable. Because I got the charger before the manual and box was finished I did not get that.

I did very soon realise that it was a good charger and that I could use some of them, therefor I put in a order and this order arrived a few days before I was going to publish the review. This has made it possible to add the above pictures of the box and do a few tests on the regular production units. The contents of the box were the same as above, but with the manual included.

The power supply is a 15V 4A brick and the actual mains connection is handled by the supplied power cable. This makes it possible to use the same power supply for all countries.

The charger can be tilted a bit, this can make the display easier to read in some situations and will probably improve the cooling slightly.

On the back is a single power connection for 12V, or rather 11V to 18V.

On the side of the charger are two usb connections, one micro for a PC link and one full size for a usb power output (This is not a power bank). There is also a led to indicate Bluetooth connection to a smartphone. The PC link can be used to control the charger and to update the firmware in the charger.

The slots uses the usual slider style, but the size is larger than usual, generally it works well, but flat top cells can be a bit tricky go get working. The two outer slots will fit D cells! They support from 29mm to 72mm, this means even the longest protected 26650 batteries.

The charger can handle 72mm long batteries, inclusive flat top cells (May require a bit of tinkering), this means all protected cells. RAM cells are not support “out of the box”, but requires a special code from SkyRC.

User interface
With all the function in this charger it has a lot of user interface with lot of settings. Generally the (advanced) user interface works fairly well, but I have one complain:

I have just put 3 batteries in the charger and it shows this, what will it do with the batteries? The second column shows some symbols, the arrow down is discharge and the * is break_in, but what chemistry, current (capacity for break_in) have I selected? I must either remember it, have a note besides the charger or use a few keypresses to check it.

Pressing the 1, 2, 3 or 4 key will show the information:

I can move between all slots with the number keys and check the first four lines of the program, pressing the arrow keys will change between programs for that slot. To see more of the program I have to press enter and arrow down. When finished with looking at the program and maybe modifying them I need to hold enter down to get back to the first screen again.

Pressing enter on the first screen will start charging all slots, holding down a number key will start charing that slot.

Two examples of the data display, scrolling down with the arrow key will show more information.

CellData
Here I have listed the full contents of the data display.
To return to the main screen enter must be pressed.


Pressing one of the arrow keys will show curves, repeatedly pressing arrows will change between the different batteries. Pressing enter will return to main screen.

In this menu the user interface can be selected, preferences can be selected, version can be read.

Let’s get back to user interfaces again. The charger has 3 different interfaces: Dummy Simple Advanced In my opinion only the advanced is interesting.

The dummy interface makes it fairly simple. The charger will automatic select LiIon or NiMH and you only have to select current, but this requires pressing a number key, before using the arrow keys. To start charging enter must be pressed. This UI can only charge.

The simple interface is a very simplified version of the advanced interface, in my opinion to many settings is missing when using this interface. At least it gives access to all the functions on the charger.

Both simple and dummy uses default settings for maximum charge time and capacity, that cannot be change, but these defaults do not always work!

Settings in simple user interface:
SimpleBatterySettings
The advanced user interface gives access to all the capabilities of the charger, but requires some time and understanding to get the programs right (I have written a small guide, it is near the bottom of this review).

Settings in advanced user interface:
AdvancedBatterySettings
Only one of CAPACITY/NOMINAL/MODEL will be visible. DELTA PEAK and TRICKLE C is shown for NiMH and TERMINATION for LiIon.

When adjusting charge current the termination current will also be adjusted to 10% of charge current, i.e. always remember to change it after adjusting the current.

CAPACITY, CUT TIME and CUT TEMP are safety settings and can be used to terminate a charge on abnormal conditions.

All the system settings:
SystemSettings
RAM cannot be enabled, it requires a secret sequence and SkyRC will only tell it to people with a receipt for RAM cells.

I do not really see the point in hiding some chemistries on this charger, you do not have to select chemistry each time you charge a cell, only when making a program

PC interface
The charger has a PC interface and it is possible to download a program from SkyRC to control the charger (Click on images for full size):
PCChartInitial
The program looks this way when started. It has a curve area, some values and checkmarks to enable different curves. The layout is fixed in size and this means you need a screen with at least 1000 dots in height to see all charts.

PCSettings
On the settings page the actual program for each slot in the charger can be seen and it is possible to update the charger software. From this program you can either use the program number that is selected on the charger or make your own settings. Clicking on one of the charger settings will open a popup (If the charger is idle). There is a button to load the actual programs from the charger (Send to device will not change the programs only override it temporary).

PCSettingsPopupSmall PCSettingsPopup
It is possible to adjust all the charger parameters in this popup. The initial popup is the small version, but pressing the >> symbol will open the full popup.

PCChart15min
Here I have started charging on 2 slots and discharging on 1 slot. While this is running I can enable/disable curves, the curves are saved, even when not displayed, this means that enabling a curve will show the full curve from the start.

PCChartFinal
Here is the full charge curves, with the LiIon cell I had specified to low capacity and it was stopped when that capacity was reached. With NiMH the curves shows the pauses used to measure voltage, it would be nice if it was possible to hide these pauses.

PCMarker
A nice little detail is that some measuring lines are show when the cursor is moved inside a chart. In this chart it is also possible to see how the voltage measurements are done each time the current is turned off for NiMH (The voltage increases each time the current is off).

PCSavedFinal
The save button will save an image with the same size as the layout on the screen, but it do not include UI elements and it uses transparent background. There is a problem with some of the text, it is not very readable.

csv-file
If you want to play with the data, the software saves a csv file with all the data (very nice). This is file saved in the same directory as the exe file and not where the screen dump is saved (oops)!

One nice detail with the software is that it does not need a driver or any installation, just plug the charger in, unpack the software and run it. But the software is not perfect, I have tried to record a LiIon refresh, but I only get the first 35 minutes on the pc?

The free software DataExplorer also has support for this charger.

Smartphone interface
I could not test this, the charger would not work with my HTC one smartphone, a small Samsung smartphone or with my Sony pad. That has prevented me from testing it.

Measurements
When not powered the charger will discharge with about 4mA
When powered the charger will discharge with about 0.4mA.
Any voltage above 0.10 volt will register as a battery and show voltage on display.
In the 0.10V to 4.50 volt range the charger was within 0.01 volt of my DMM (Very good).
Charge current is within 0.01A of my DMM (#1 not included) (Very good).
Discharge current is within 0.02A of my DMM (#1 not included) (Very good).
Voltage is always updated, also when charging is finished.
Restarting charging when voltage drops is configurable.
Trickle charging is configurable.
Charging voltage is configurable.
-dv/dt sensitivity is configurable.
Unloaded power consumption is 1.1 watt from 12V with display on and 0.7 watt with display off.
Unloaded mains power consumption with display on is 2 watt, with display off and 1.4 watt (Power supply alone is 0.29 watt).

Dummy mode user interface
In this mode you just put LiIon or NiMH cells in the charger and select current, chemistry and charge parameters are automatic selected.



First battery in dummy mode is a 3100mAH LiIon cell where I selected 1A charge current. It did not really work because the charger has a default time limit of 3 hours on all charging (In advanced mode I can change it, but not in dummy or simple mode). To charge LiIon in dummy mode this means I either has to accept a fairly high charge current, accept partial charged cells or charge two times. I hope this get fixed in next software update.

With NiMH AA/AAA the 3 hours limit is much more acceptable and it did a fine charge. When finished it uses a low trickle charge current, because I mostly uses LSD (Low self discharge) cells, I would have preferred it without trickle charge (Using advanced mode it can be disabled). Charging real C or D cells in dummy mode will probably hit either the time limit or the capacity limit.

Charging LiIon
First test is a normal LiIon charging at 1A. The current is very precise at 1A, until the charger goes into constant voltage phase. The termination is at 50mA, this is not the default for the charger, but something I selected. This charge curve is just about a perfect CC/CV charge. The display shows 2926mAh charged into the battery, this is very close to my equipment.

The 3 other channels looks about the same, #2 is a bit slower because the cell goes into the CV phase earlier due to higher internal resistance and takes longest to charge (i.e. it is a bit more worn). The display shows: 2950mAh, 2961mAh, 2858mAh

With freely adjustable charger current I can charge these cells at their maximum charge current and save some time. Nearly all 18650 cells have a maximum charge current at 1.5A or higher.

It is also possible to do a very slow charge, just remember to disable time check. Display shows: 2834mAh

With the 2600mAh cell I used the standard termination current (10% of charge current, i.e. 100mA in this case). Display shows: 2498mAh

No surprise with this cell.

Charging a 14500 cell with 20mA termination works perfectly. Display shows: 756mAh

My very old and nearly completely worn out cell is also handled perfectly by the charger.

This charge can also charge with very low current, i.e. handle small LiIon cells like 10180. Here I am charging with 50mA and it is a stable 50mA current (Very nice). I did use “Zero” termination, it looks like it is close to the 10mA termination.

This worn cell is easily handled by the charger.

Four cells at 1A is easy enough for the charger.

Here I fast charged some cells using the full power of the charger. Input current did go slightly above 5A with a 12V supply. I did set a fairly low termination current to secure the cells would be filled, using the default higher termination current would only have lost me a few percent of the capacity and saved me 20 minutes in charge time. The cells started at a fairly low voltage and the charger used slow charge until they reaced 3.2 volt, then it turned on the full current.

Temp2710
M1: 35,1°C, M2: 37,2°C, M3: 37,8°C, M4: 34,1°C, HS1: 45,1°C Charging with 1A, the fan did not start during this charge.

Temp2677
M1: 41,1°C, M2: 43,1°C, M3: 42,7°C, M4: 39,1°C, M5: 46,6°C, HS1: 55,3°C Charging with 3A, here the fan started, as can be seen on the table and on the much cooler charger. Remember that it is possible to adjust when the fan starts, i.e. how hot the charger must be.

Temp2678
M1: 48,9°C, M2: 51,0°C, HS1: 73,8°C

StartupLiIon
When the start button is pressed the charger will measure internal resistance of the batteries, then it will slowly ramp the current up to selected charge current. When charging LiIon is will use constant current all the time.

ProtectionReset
The charger has a special protection reset, hold down the number button for an empty slot and it will pulse the current.

Charging LiIon 4.30V and 4.35V
The charger has a 4.35V LiIon setting, inside this setting it is possible to adjust the charge voltage to either 4.35V or 4.30V (Any value from 4.10 to 4.40) when using advanced UI.

I tested with a 4.35V cell and 4.35V charge voltage, everything worked as expected.

LiIon
LiIon cannot really be over charged when the charger uses the correct voltage, but damage cells can do nasty things if the charger continues to charge them. Using the capacity and timer cut specification will reduce the risk of that. Because LiIon do only need rated capacity when charged the safety limit can be place as low as 10% above the rating, but more is also acceptable. For 18650 I will be using 3600mAh and for 26650 7000mAh limits. Time can be estimated as capacity/current+2 hours, i.e. for a 3400mAh cell at 1A it is 3400/1000+2 -> 5.4 hours or 5 hours and 40 minute. The extra hours added will depend on cell age and termination current, two hours will work in most cases.

When discharging using 3V as “cut volt” is always safe, for lower voltage it is best to check the datasheet, but a single discharge to a lower voltage without using the “D.REDUCE” option will probably be safe (I have never seen any problems in my tests).

Testing the mains transformer with 2500 volt and 5000 volt between mains and low volt side, did not show any safety problems.

Conclusion
This charger can handle many chemistries and many battery sizes and in addition to this it has a good precision, all of this is way above any other (consumer) charger on the market at the current time. Using the safety functions (Capacity, time, temperature) it is very easy to add a extra layer of safety to the charge process and due to the programs it only has to be configured once and then it will be active for all charging of the battery type. The charger has 3 UI modes, the dummy mode is mostly for people that got this charger without realizing what it is, the simple mode can be used to charge/test any chemistry, but it is not really possible to adjust any parameters. For really using the charger there is only advanced mode (Or PC/phone interface).

The charger is not without issues, most of them will probably be fixed with software upgrades, I have collected some of them here: It is required to remember the program numbers or press a key, on the initial screen there is no hint on how the selected program works. Default time on LiIon is 3 hours, this is to short. When terminating on time or capacity, no capacity information is saved. Break_in shows charged capacity, not discharge capacity. Backlight always requires a keypress to turn on, putting a battery into the charger will not turn the light on Factory calibration do not match specifications. The PC software requires a high screen resolution NiMH charge curves looks messy on PC, an option to hiding measuring pauses would be nice. PC software saves csv files at wrong location. It is not possible to copy programming from one charger to another, people with more than one charger (That will be me) must enter each program on each charger! The Bluetooth software is not stable and do not work on all phones. Strange coding on the usb output, why not use a chip to automatic get the best coding?

Even with all the above issues I can only call it a very good charger, but it is not for everyone.

Discussion:
I wanted to check the capacity of a few lipo’s i have. My charger has a discharge function for lipo’s (unfortunately no lipo cycling like NiMH). So I wanted to discharge a 3s lipo to 11.10V(3.70V per cell.) That’s empty for LiPo. Unfortunately the only cutoff possible is at 3.0 V per cell. That will kill my lipo’s. I asked Skyrc email service department and they told me that it is not possible. Do you think that 3V is normal for lipo cutoff? Will 3.00 V kill a LiPo?

Reply 1:
3v used to be the standard cut off value for under load now 3.2v is often preferred. discharging to 3v under no (or little) load will definitely harm your battery. Why not just pay attention to how much is put back into the battery after you fly rather then a discharge test? If you really want to do a discharge test get a watt meter and hook up to some light bulbs. The discharge rate of that charger is so slow anyways that it is not a very good test.

Reply 2:
Many years ago I use too use a Triton to discharge LiPolys. I used the Ni discharge function and set discharge to 11.1V for a 3S LiPoly. Charger does not know if a Ni or a LiPoly is being discharged. Charles

Reply 3:
Very true I have used Nicd discharge to drain a lipo for disposal. So that’s always an option.

Discussion:
I’m posting this here because my monster Slash started life as a ‘Pede. I got a Toro SC120 system in the mail last night, stuffed it in with a 58t Jato spur and a 14t 5mm bore pinion. The system comes with a mounting plate for Traxxas vehicles, so I didn’t have to make one. Install took the normal amount of time, nothing unusual at all. It does not come with a connector, and you have to solder everything up.

I dropped in a freshly charged Orion 5000mah 90c lipo, and took it for a rip in the dark. Holy Jesus, this thing absolutely rips! My testing ended quickly when I realized that I couldn’t see the pipe in the yard.This afternoon, I burned a few packs, turned up the EPA to get full throttle, and had to tighten the slipper. A lot. Wow. Stupid, silly, retarded power. But smooth, controllable silly power. I could creep through the flowerbed, pick through the technical section of my neighbor’s yard, wheelie from 3/4 throttle. The brakes at 50% are perfect, too. It’s 100f right now, and the speedo got slightly warm to the touch, the motor was about 160. It comes with a program card, which I haven’t used, a lot of 12ga wire, the mounting plate, and some screws that are too short to use. The only downside is that the ESC has a two-wire power switch. I would have preferred no switch at all. The big 550 can and speedo have sweet lookin’ orange anodized aluminum, and everything looks super tuff- not like a budget system at all, in fact, nicer than stock VXL and much nicer than Castle. This system is also rebranded as Tenshock and probably a few others by now. I think that it’s a super good system at any price, and am recommending it to all of you power sickos.

Reply 1:
Its the same thing as the *********/Tenshock setups. And while many people run them with few problems there are just as many with problems.

Reply 2:
” nicer than stock VXL and much nicer than Castle” Nicer than VXL, but MUCH nicer than Castle? Should be other way around no? Thing is, that system is china made. So even if their customer service is good, than ud still have to pay international shipping. And I image the customer service reps wouldnt be so easy to communicate with if something goes wrong. Thing about Castle is they stand by their products. So if something fails, one can send it in. Same with VXL. And im sure it has great power, but Castle systems also RIIIIPPPPPPP. Although the Tenshock 6 pole motors are super strong. Stronger than 3800. ( according to Jang)

Reply 3:
LOL….I had to get ya, Loot! But, you are correct. Castle is an American company who manufactures in China, instead of a Chinese company manufacturing in China. The difference is customer support is State-side. And as a current owner of a China/China motor, Yes some of them are fairly descent. However, there are noticeable quality differences. Love the review and its awesome you are satisfied and excited. Just keep it realistic!

Reply 4:
Good info and good to hear about another budget system. For me I like to know that someone stands behind their products though. Traxxas & Castle are some of the best. Even though you have to wait for castle replacements sometimes, its worth the wait for me. I’m not going to hate, to each their own. IMO I’m guilty as charged as i’ve purchased a Tacon motor and they are really nice for the cost. You can buy 2-3 of those vs a castle one. And to this day, for over a year, that bad boy is still running. Is it bad to pick up a motor for 25 clams and it do that good. I think so. If it would have boogered in a couple of weeks of purchasing I probably would have just chunked it and ran. Not worth the hastle for me. I’m just talking. LOL I’ve heard really good stuff about Tenshock/ ********* combos. If the person is wanting a budget friendly system and saves them a few bucks while doing it, go for it. For me that little bit of ka-ching, i’d spend the difference knowing the company is backing their product. BTW that looks good on ur truck Blaster.

Reply 5:
Quick update. My 4×4 axles are twisted, the roll pin on the topshaft sheared off, and my rear tires came unglued. The stock Slash rear bumper now shoots sparks from the mounting screws. Both of the guys I was bashing with last night asked me if I was on 3s. My top speed, geared very conservatively, was easily 15mph higher than the aggressively geared VXL Slashes the other guys were running. Overall, I’m super happy with the combo, and after doing the repairs, will pull out a bunch of punch. The slipper was slipping for a few feet from a fast roll, so with less punch, I’ll be able to loosen it more and save the driveline. One of the guys nuked a VXL system yesterday- guess what he’s ordering to replace it?

Reply 6:
Considering that this system costs less than a Duratrax Element 3900kv short can four pole/Sidewinder combo, comes with a functioning program card that works through the fan plug not the ESC lead, has a BEC that can run high power servos and fans, runs reasonably cool in Texas heat, and makes parts breaking power, I’d say that it’s a fantastic deal. I seem to have forgotten to mention that the whole system costs less than $100. Everyone wants a MMP with a decent BEC- this is it. If guys are using Castle stuff and are happy with it, keep using it. If you want something different, or want big power on 2s, or are just cheap like me, try this one out. Speedos are only $55 or so, the motors are about the same. Toro has sensored systems as well. Our next system will be a 10.5 Toro- they are only $105. Don’t worry- the ugly solder joints are fixed. I didn’t realize that they would cause so much excitement.

Discussion:
I am wondering if you all here have any positive or negative opinions on this combo? It is very cheap ($66 about), which is all I can afford. I have scoured the Internet and read/watched what is out there. Wants my buddies opinions here also! I understand there was a revision to the motor magnets to prevent failure at temperature? Have any of you recently purchased and found any improvement? Thanks

Reply 1:
What vehicle is it going in? The motor is a 380 motor in a bigger finned can, so it won’t be as powerful as a full 540 motor, but it’s still powerful enough for some vehicles. I’ve got the 3900kv version in my old XXT and it’s great as a parking lot basher.

Reply 2:
Going into a traxxas slash 4×4 platinum. I ordered the track star originally and waited 2 months before hobbyking decided to tell me the order was back ordered. Not to mention other payment issues with them which were bogus – I seriously would love to have the trackstar but refuse to deal again with hobbyking. Great stuff – horrid service. Ordered the leopard kit- we will see how good it is I guess. Just bashing so it should be fun enough! Thanks for your reply!

Reply 3:
Like I said, I have the 3900kv version in my XXT, but it’s a light 2wd stadium truck not a 4wd heavier SCT. 4wd SCT’s need a lot more power to get the same speed as a 2wd stadium truck. It will definitely move, but if the gearing is wrong you could easily burn stuff up. Keep a very close eye on motor/esc temperatures every 20-30 seconds for the first couple runs to be safe.

Reply 4:
It seems to run really strong! You can tell its a cheap system by the jitter leaving a stop but overall, 7.4v lipo the thing rips! I want to go down one tooth on the pinion to lower the ops temp but for $60 it runs well! I will add more data/gearing/temperatures as I go…..

Reply 5:
I think it’d be smart to start out with the lowest load on it first naturally and record some op temps.